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Routes in The Twilight Zone

Chaser, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Execution S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Freedom Fries S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mind and the Matter, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shadow Play S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Kirk Miller, Eric Schmeer (10/08)
Page Views: 3,085 total, 28/month
Shared By: Kirk Miller on Nov 26, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

"Take a short but very meaningful journey into the Twilight Zone"

Pull through the crux roof moving right onto the overhanging headwall, then back left and up to the anchors. Tricky.

Location

This is currently the rightmost route in The Twilight Zone.

Protection

9 bolts to chain and ring anchor.

Photos

Abram Herman
Grand Junction, CO
  5.11-
Abram Herman   Grand Junction, CO
  5.11-
Fun! With all respect to Crag Dweller, I don't think you need to be worried about extending any of these bolts. I clipped all of them (including the kind of unnecessary first bolt) with short sport draws, and I didn't notice rope drag at all. Jul 29, 2013
Crag Dweller
New York, NY
  5.11
Crag Dweller   New York, NY
  5.11
A really fun route. The roof was more pumpy than I anticipated and, after a little rest, the headwall continues to challenge with a steep, tricky sequence.

A couple of suggestions. First, as others have said, the lower half is really chossy, so the belayer should set up with the ability to get out of the way in case anything comes down. And, you'll save yourself some rope drag if you use long draws on the 2nd and 3rd bolts, plus you'll prevent the rope from running across the edge of the roof. Aug 31, 2012
Awesome, technical, balancy upper section!
Got a draw on the last bolt but couldn't clip it - made for an awesome redpoint! Jun 13, 2011
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
  5.11b
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
  5.11b
Chossy at the bottom... would be a three star route otherwise. The roof and above is brilliant! Very well bolted. Jul 12, 2009
Derek Lawrence
Bailey
  5.11-
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
  5.11-
Fun route. Definitely a little tricky to read. May 8, 2009