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Routes in Teaser

Teaser T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mark Force, Paul Davidson, Randy Mettler, Spring 1979
Page Views: 418 total · 4/month
Shared By: Paul Davidson on Nov 25, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Originally a two pitch climb, I believe the second time I did this tower, I led it as one pitch. NOTE: This should be verified by a recent ascent.

First pitch goes up the obvious crack/flake system on the east face that leads up to the split between the two towers. Moderate and fun climbing in the 5.9 range. Good pro.

Second pitch is easier but runout. Chimney between the two towers until you commit to the north side tower.

I believe I saw some later write ups of this climb thinking it was a first ascent but don't recall what name was given to the route.

This is a really fun summit. Much easier than Firecat. Good jamming, etc... Pretty mild for Sedona.

Location

Find Teaser spire, uphill from Firecat. It's the squat twin tower that can be discerned in some of the photos of Margs Draw.

Climb the east face. Rap into the notch or north side, should be fairly obvious.
Sorry, I cannot recall if a single rope works for the rap or not. I rarely, if ever climbed in Sedona with a single line so until someone posts otherwise, best to have a second rap line. But, my fuzzy memory says one rope works.

Protection

Standard sandstone rack. Hand size and maybe a couple of larger ones ?

Rap off the top towards the short side.
Don't recall the anchor, it might have been a small tree.

Photos

- No Photos -
Mark Force led the first pitch on the first ascent.
And Randy Mettler was also in on the first. Dec 20, 2008

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