Type: Sport
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 1,483 total · 12/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Nov 24, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

This route is made up of a big jugs and long reaches. There is a nice horn for a shake out near the top. Clip the last bolt and go! Really fun climbing.

Location

To the right of Captain Cupcake. Starts just right of the yellow/greenish rock at the bottom in the cave.

Protection

6 bolts, chain anchors.

Photos

KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
 
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
 
Seriously overhanging with reachy buff moves. The last half is just 100 grain sandpaper. Hands and rope will take a beating. The toughest part is going to the small seam with your right hand at about the 4th bolt then at the 6th bolt going up to a sloper after the really good horn. Big moves. Cleaning is tough. Very fun for the overhanging ape moves needed. Nov 30, 2009
Leify Guy
  5.12a
Leify Guy  
  5.12a
By far my favorite route in the area so far, big moves, big holds, overhanging, and lots of power involved! Definitely a great route, but be ready for what feels like boulder problem to boulder problem with exposure and a rope! Jan 1, 2014
Definitely a fun route, fun aesthetic first few moves to get to the horns. Then a big blind reach to a great ledge. Once you grab that ledge just gun for the chains! P.s. the tick marks on the route threw me off on my first attempt. I assumed that they were ticks for holds, instead they point in the direction of the hold WAAAAAY up there. So don't aim for the tick, aim way above the tick when throwing. No intermediate holds. Enjoy! P.P.S. this rock is going to eat your rope! Possibly consider rapping off the top. Also make sure you have a long draw or webbing for the bolt right before the horns! Jul 15, 2015