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Routes in Little Shop of Horrors

American Graffiti S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Bingo's Revenge S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blade Runner S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dentist S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Elastique S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
La Bouef Rouge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Plant Food 5.11d/5.12a S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rage in Eden S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
TON-TON S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Ultimate Violence S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 87 ft
FA: Glotfelty
Page Views: 67 total, 1/month
Shared By: Rick D on Nov 24, 2008
Admins: Justin Johnsen

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Description

Pull through crimps, a couple slopers, and then to a slab. After the slab, you go through the roof to the top.

Location

This route is directly left of Elastique. There are a couple of ways to start it. You can either do the same start as Elastique/Plant food. Put a long runner on the second bolt and head way left up the sloppy dihedrial. Clip first bolt and go.

Or you can walk up the easy 5'th class stuff just to the left of Plant food and belay from just under the first bolt, skipping the dihedrial. If you do it this way, it's 6 bolts total. 8 bolts the other way.

Protection

6 bolts. Either the 1'st or 2'nd bolt is not that secure. The rock has chipped awaw below it, leaving about a 1/4" of the bolt exposed. Go through this section carefully.

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