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Routes in End Pinnacle

Be All, End All T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cap'm Pissgums T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Days of Future Passed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Endgame T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Great Gig in the Sky T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Jimmywacky T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Magnus Veritas T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Poetry in Motion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Son of Gums T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncarved Block T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Unknown (L of Endgame) S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Welcome to the Machine T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: EFR, John Hayes, Virgil Davis
Page Views: 2,090 total · 17/month
Shared By: Geir on Nov 23, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Closed from March 1 to June 30 Details

Description

An excellent climb on beautiful, exposed rock. For those climbing at this grade, this climb should not be missed!

Pitch 1) Start in the same ramp/trough as Days of Future Passed. Continue up this feature until a bolt appears on your left. Make a hard move left, and continue up past two more bolts and tricky (but good) gear placements to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2) Hard face climbing past four bolts. The climbing eases to 5.9-5.10 after this point, and the bolts become spaced further. Continue along the bolts to the anchor at the end of pitch 3 of Endgame.

A topo for this climb can be downloaded by clicking this link:

toofasttopos.com/free/

While the second pitch of this climb is very difficult, the first pitch alone is excellent. You can rappel from the end of either pitch with two 60 meter ropes.

Location

End Pinnacle, South Face.

Protection

Bolts, stoppers, and a single set of cams to #4.

Photos

Geir - I think your topo is missing a route between Jimmywacky and Days... Dec 3, 2008
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.11d
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.11d
yes, that's correct. great gig in the sky is missing. i haven't climbed great gig yet. once i do, though, i'll be glad to add it to the topo (assuming i survive.)

:)
geir Dec 3, 2008
Horse poo to you, RickD. That time you spent in Pensyltuckey must have really messed with your mind. Have you ever moved back to the desert?

We did not bail. You belayed me when I lead that spooky runout pitch. You were all over the bolt-minimizing fancy-pants belays where the first piece on the route was part of the belay. (Are two bolts still considered belay anchors if they're 15 vertical feet apart?) We were so messed up after that pitch we couldn't do the third. Late in the day and all that bs. That second pitch had maybe one bolt and three chicken necks to sling (could have used grey tape to hold the slings on the rock). The good news is that it's only vertical...

Maybe there's another RickD in the climbing world? Jan 30, 2009
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
John Hayes was on the FA of the first pitch and I think Virgil Davis was with me on the second pitch. Pretty cool how exposed this climb is. Nov 13, 2012
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
  5.11b/c
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
  5.11b/c
Pitch one is definitely the money pitch; `130' of varied, thought-provoking, and challenging climbing on great rock. Pitch two isn't bad, but lacks the rock quality and continuity of the first. The initial ~40' of the second pitch contains continuously hard, thin climbing, after which there's ~130' of easy climbing to the anchors. We rapped from the top of the second with two 50m ropes and barely got back to the anchors on pitch one (note: the rap line falls about 20' left of the anchors, so you'll have to swing over to them. Knot the ends of your rope!). Definitely a climb worth doing! Nov 14, 2015

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