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Routes in West Face - Center (Flintstone Slab)

Angel's Fright T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Angel's Wing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Barney TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bedrock T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Betty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blankety Blank T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cary Granite T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Dino T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fred T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fright Night T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Great Gazoo, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Human Fright T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Slate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pebbles T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Quarry, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Switchbacks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Switchbacks, Direct Start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Twinkletoes T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Wilma T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
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Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Charles Cole and Troy Mayr, Aug 1988 (P1) & Oct 1991 (P2)
Page Views: 1,586 total · 14/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Nov 23, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

Fright Night climbs the right facing tips dihedral immediately left of Human Fright up to the giant hanging flake with a bolt on it. The crux is the P2 hard slab protected by bolts. Mostly 5.11 climbing. The crux on P1 can be bypassed on the right to keep all of P1 at easy 5.11. Both pitches can be easily top roped from the Human Fright anchors. I recommend doing P1 as P2 was not nearly as interesting (just my opinion).

P1 80': Start at the bush just left of Human Fright and climb the very thin fingertips dihedral to a bolt that protects the moves when the dihedral no longer accepts gear. An 11- technical crux is found right here. Continue climbing straight up to the gigantic hanging flake with a bolt on it. Clip the bolt from a good stance. Climb straight up and onto the flake for the 11+ P1 crux. Or you can lieback the flake out right and move up onto the flake from the right (about 5.10). The flake is sharp underneath, but not bad on the top and feels very good and solid. Continue up to the P1 anchors that are shared with Human Fright. Bolts and rap rings.

P2 110': Climb straight up the easy section of P2 of Human Fright, but head straight up and onto the face left of the dihedral to the bolts. The 4 bolts here protect the 5.12a crux, which is hard slab. Shares the belay with Human Fright at the bush on the good ledge above.

Both pitches can be rapped with a single 70m. Probably a 60m as well, but not sure.

Location [Suggest Change]

Immediately left of Human Fright. The first bolt is easy to spot.

Rap off with a single 70m (probably 60m works too) in two raps, or continue up to the top of Tahquitz on the route of your choice and walk off.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Small wires to 1.5" cams.
4 quickdraws.

Photos

Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
1st pitch is beautiful. singles from .3" to 1.5" is plenty except for doubles of blue alien and red ball-nut. make sure that your stoppers include some very small ones; I used a #1 stopper about 6' above the crux on the first pitch. Aug 22, 2010
Murf  
No specialized gear like ballnuts required (or even helpful) IMO. Aug 27, 2010
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.11+
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.11+
followed my buddy on this, he didn't use ball nuts but he did place 2-3 brass nuts Apr 14, 2017
Ben May
San Diego, CA
Ben May   San Diego, CA
P2 felt super grainy and very hard. I left a bail biner. Sep 3, 2017

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