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Alpine Simulator
5.7+ M4-5 Mod. Snow,
Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 6 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 3.3 from 4
votes
FA: Eric B
Idaho
> E Idaho
> Garden Creek Gap
> S Side
Description
One of the classics; if not the funnest of the Gap routes. A few mixed pitches brings one to the midsdle of the prominent prow in the center of the face. Climb steep 5.7 jugs(mixed) for a couple pitches and finish on easy mixed terrian which puts you right on the summit. Exposed, fun and as with all gap routes, unique.
Location
Start at the base of the central coulior and climb approx 250ft up to a point where it looks like fun to traverse right to gain the main rib on the north face; climb up!
[Hide Photo] Our pitch 3 belay. I believe that I should have kept heading right a bit more before going up to stay on route. As it was, I went left and up, which still lead to fun climbing.
[Hide Photo] Rough Topo of the alpine simulator. When entering the gap it climbs the obvious 800ft prow in the center of the face. A super classic winter adventure!
[Hide Comment] This route goes at very mellow low 5th class with a single pitch of 5.7 in dry conditions with rock shoes. There are plenty of oppurtunities to make this a harder/easier route, make it up as you go. Rock quality is pretty decent with gear protecting anywhere you may feel like you want it. Looking forward to coming back in the winter and climbing it as a mixed route!
Oct 18, 2019
[Hide Comment] This is a cool route. Having accidentally done a FA further left of this line on the same buttress two weeks ago (Agri-Alpinism), I returned to find the "proper" Alpine Simulator. I believe we did, connecting a logical line that felt fair M4 with reasonable proximity to the red line on the provided topo. This was a great sustained climb on the steepest feature of the Gap, albeit remarkably moderate. The protection was generally adequate.
Pitches 1-3: Follow the main weakness pictured in the photo above through easy terrain, maybe some ice dribbles and a few chockstones up to M3. When you reach a large snowfield, the ramp/slabs of pitch three appear on the right. Climb these slabs with cool edges and follow the ramp to a snowy ledge bisecting the steeper face above. Agri-Alpinism diverges here on climber's left through steeper terrain. Continue to on the snow ramp and set a belay near its end.
Pitch Four and Five (M4): I have a hard time believing this could be done in one pitch as the topo says, at least pleasantly, due to rope drag. That said, we climbed to almost the end of the snow ramp and stepped back left above a brief overhang and into a broad left trending weakness of steep rock climbing jugs (M4). Follow this weakness onto a brief right trending slab with two different attractive vertical cracks overhead and a small belay ledge with a bush. We incorrectly tried to climb the right crack right above the belay, a jagged finger crack seemingly built for tools, but it got difficult and chossy. Instead we climbed around the corner to the right (M4) and up an immediate weakness on the right side of the ridge, an awkward steep slot with amazing hooks (M4) to a remarkably clean and tricky slab. The path of least resistance above climbed straight up, then slightly right through a little easy chimney slot, then back left through a little easy chimney slot, to a great belay stance on the upper face.
Pitch Six (M?): I've now led this pitch twice and still find it difficult to grade given its bulgy nature and abundant options. The path I've taken twice is mostly rambly steps with one tricky M4-ish thing. You might find an easier or harder way. The idea is to climb more or less directly up through snowy mountain ledges and finish just right of the prow summit.
Pitch Seven and Eight (M3 or M5): My partner took this from the flat saddle between the prow and summit ridge all the way to the summit in 60 meters by virtue of placing very little protection. I believe it will most practically be climbed in two pitches. Climb a low angle open book dihedral/slab on the direct ridge crest until you can step off the ridge to the very top of the snow couloir on climber's right. Continue up through a chimney with brief tricky move and consider belaying here on a small snow field. The final lead either follows the juggy right trending ramp all the way around the corner (M3) or follows the right trending ramp until just below the summit, and climbs to the summit direct on very very steep hooks for a few body lengths (M5). I think the former variation will be preferred and most logical by most parties.
Hope this helps! Three stars by Gap standards. For those up to the challenge, Agri-Alpinism takes a more direct, steeper and logical line up the meat of the face.
Dec 14, 2023
Avg: 3.3 from 4
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Tucson
Boise, ID
Victor, ID
Pitches 1-3: Follow the main weakness pictured in the photo above through easy terrain, maybe some ice dribbles and a few chockstones up to M3. When you reach a large snowfield, the ramp/slabs of pitch three appear on the right. Climb these slabs with cool edges and follow the ramp to a snowy ledge bisecting the steeper face above. Agri-Alpinism diverges here on climber's left through steeper terrain. Continue to on the snow ramp and set a belay near its end.
Pitch Four and Five (M4): I have a hard time believing this could be done in one pitch as the topo says, at least pleasantly, due to rope drag. That said, we climbed to almost the end of the snow ramp and stepped back left above a brief overhang and into a broad left trending weakness of steep rock climbing jugs (M4). Follow this weakness onto a brief right trending slab with two different attractive vertical cracks overhead and a small belay ledge with a bush. We incorrectly tried to climb the right crack right above the belay, a jagged finger crack seemingly built for tools, but it got difficult and chossy. Instead we climbed around the corner to the right (M4) and up an immediate weakness on the right side of the ridge, an awkward steep slot with amazing hooks (M4) to a remarkably clean and tricky slab. The path of least resistance above climbed straight up, then slightly right through a little easy chimney slot, then back left through a little easy chimney slot, to a great belay stance on the upper face.
Pitch Six (M?): I've now led this pitch twice and still find it difficult to grade given its bulgy nature and abundant options. The path I've taken twice is mostly rambly steps with one tricky M4-ish thing. You might find an easier or harder way. The idea is to climb more or less directly up through snowy mountain ledges and finish just right of the prow summit.
Pitch Seven and Eight (M3 or M5): My partner took this from the flat saddle between the prow and summit ridge all the way to the summit in 60 meters by virtue of placing very little protection. I believe it will most practically be climbed in two pitches. Climb a low angle open book dihedral/slab on the direct ridge crest until you can step off the ridge to the very top of the snow couloir on climber's right. Continue up through a chimney with brief tricky move and consider belaying here on a small snow field. The final lead either follows the juggy right trending ramp all the way around the corner (M3) or follows the right trending ramp until just below the summit, and climbs to the summit direct on very very steep hooks for a few body lengths (M5). I think the former variation will be preferred and most logical by most parties.
Hope this helps! Three stars by Gap standards. For those up to the challenge, Agri-Alpinism takes a more direct, steeper and logical line up the meat of the face. Dec 14, 2023