Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Kyle Copeland (aid Ca 1985), Charlie Fowler (pinkpoint soon after). Gear placed on lead: Noel Childs, Steve Morris, Jerry Rock, 1987
Page Views: 1,267 total · 10/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Nov 23, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Little Bo Peep Diploma is an outstanding crack through a roof that faces up-gully. Steeper than Bishop Crack, Far Reaches, and Brothers in Arms.

The first pitch of Little Bo Peep Diploma is a steep, left leaning, crack to a hanging belay. A little green, but wild.

Pitch two is the real deal. A thin crack allows passage for the hard through roofs. The summit crag has a bolted anchor that looked chained too.

It may be that the summit anchor is only 35 meters up, so the hanging belay could be avoided by the very strong party.

Location

At the top of the gully between Wigwam Dome and The Sun. The route faces up the gully and can't be seen until past all the other routes.

Protection

About 35 meters of finger and hand crack.

Photos

Patrick Peddy
evergreen,co
Patrick Peddy   evergreen,co
Heard from Noel that he and "maddog" Steve Morris freed this in early 90's. Calling it Bopeep Diploma. .12 Feb 26, 2009
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
I remember Steve really working on it one Fall. Apr 19, 2009
Scott Bennett
Michigan
  5.12
Scott Bennett   Michigan
  5.12
Fun route, worth checking out if you're in the area. I did think, though, that the rock was not nearly of the same quality of other hard South Platte classics.
It's the big-grained, sharp, and somewhat friable stuff that is usually avoided. Avoided, that it, unless it has a splitter like this!

-Scott Oct 21, 2010