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Routes in Wigwam Dome

El Supremo T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Hill's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lady Slipper T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Little Bo Peep Diploma T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
On the Edge T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pow Wow Canal T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Ramblin' Rose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Teepee Tower Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trail of Tears T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trout-Baker Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Violent Energy T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Warpath T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wunsch's Simulator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ken Trout, Rob Baker, 1985ish
Page Views: 1,084 total, 10/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Nov 23, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

My book states; "The first pitch has good steep knobs, the second pitch is the best crack on Wigwam (not!), and the third is a bit hairy and very exposed. The rap anchor on the summit is a bolt in rotten rock backed up with a sling around a horn (of rotten rock!).

This route should have a sign like the one in the Wizard of Oz: "If I were you I'd turn back now." At least until this "buttonhead" route has new bolts.

We rapped off the overhung backside of the crumbling summit using two 50 meter ropes. Stretchy 9mm ropes that barely made it, maybe. Putting a rap route down the route, with anchors in the better rock below the true summit, would be better.

This route is an unusually good mixture of crack, slab, and exposure.

Location

About where the approach trail reaches the rock. A short, toothy, handcrack almost gets you to the first bolt.

Protection

I'm guessing doubles from purple to yellow (#2) Camalots, but some thinner cams too. One #3 Cam and wires down to #3 BD steel.

Photos

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