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Routes in Bad Bananas

Allegro Energico S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bad Bananas T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Banana Roof S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Be All That You Can Be S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Beetlejuice S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Brain Full of Spiders S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bufugly S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Chiquita S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dancing With Feral Debutantes S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Early Retirement T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
El Crapitan S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Plantains T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jodonna S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Moment of Decay S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mozambique S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oscar the Grouch S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rainbird S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Vitamine P S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Western Front S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
When You’re Feeling Sinister S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 315 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Perin Blanchard (19 Nov 08)
Page Views: 4,734 total, 43/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Nov 21, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

An enjoyable, moderate route to the top of the Bad Bananas formation. Shares the first pitch and part of the second pitch with Brain Full of Spiders, then climbs the striking headwall to the north of the cone-shaped structure at the west side of the buttress.

P1 (110', 5.9) See Brain Full of Spiders.

P2 (80', 5.4) From the belay, step right and up from the pedestal into a steep gully with two bolts. Sling these two bolts long and climb up onto the platform at the top left of the gully (to the right of the bush). Clip the bolt above with a sling, turn the corner and start traversing left and then up a bit through five bolts (a couple of slings will be helpful). Arrive at the belay between two bushes on a sloping ledge.

P3 (125', 5.7) Follow four bolts up and slightly leftward to the base of the headwall on the left (slinging the fourth and fifth bolts long will help with rope drag). Climb and stem up through an easy, overhanging section on big positive edges, continue through a less-than-vertical section on the same sort of edges, and then step right onto the base of the smoother, continuous-appearing section that leads to the top. The climbing gets a little tougher, but the really intimidating section is easily bypassed. Climbing left of the last smooth section on the face keeps it about 5.7; going just right of the penultimate bolt on the face is about 5.9.

Original Finish (5.7). Arrive at a narrow ledge just below the top, clip the bolt, and make a fun, airy move past the left side overhang on big holds (there is a final bolt right at the top lip, but it isn’t really necessary, having started life as a rappel work bolt).

Alternative Finish (5.10c). After the last bolt on the face, climb out the steepest, airiest part of the overhang and pull over the top. There are two bolts (the first has a 24" Frost Power Draw attached).

The belay anchor is about 10 feet east on a shelf of rock about thigh-height.

Rappelling or lowering the last pitch. Note that the distance from the anchors at the bottom of the last pitch to the anchors at the top of the last pitch is approximately 125 feet. This distance is too far to lower or rappel from the anchors using a single rope. (Why rappel or lower the last pitch? Because it's the best pitch and your partner wants to lead it as well).

However, it is possible, using a 70m rope, to rappel or lower from the last bolt on the west lip of the ending overhang. Since it is a single bolt, it's a good idea to back the bolt up to the anchors. Alternatively, you could rappel to the last bolt on the lower-angled part, and the rap from that single bolt to the starting ledge.

Descent

From the final belay position walk uphill a few feet to the top of the buttress. Walk down a trail northeast until the gully, and then talus-surf to the canyon floor.

Protection

Bring enough draws and slings for fourteen bolts. At least two double-length slings and at least two single-length slings are needed for managing rope drag on the first and second pitches, and two single length slings may be helpful on the third pitch.

P1 14 bolts, double ring anchors
P2 8 bolts, two-hanger anchor
P3 14 bolts (+1 superfluous), two-hanger anchor
P3, alternate finish 15 bolts, two-hanger anchor

Photos

Alex Temus
Small Town, USA
  5.10a
Alex Temus   Small Town, USA
  5.10a
Seriously loved the last pitch! I much prefer this to Brain Full of Spiders, you get the best of that route (P1) then throw the best climbing on P3 (even better than the beginning) This is one of my favorite routes in the canyon! Feb 8, 2017
Nathaniel Holt
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Nathaniel Holt   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
The 5.10c alternative finish is awesome! I highly recommend doing it to get the most out of the route. Still love pitch 1 as well though. Jun 22, 2012
Aaron Child  
 
I did the first two pitches of Good Plantains, then hooked onto the last pitch of Dancing and did the 10c variation. Possibly the coolest exposure i've experienced in that canyon, pulling that roof. Props to Perin. Nov 18, 2009
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
When you get on these routes be prepared to take your time. You might want to take a small pack with water, descent shoes and a headlamp. I've always come down in the dark! It just takes longer than you think. The last pitch on this one is just simply awesome. Nov 9, 2009
Jonathan Adams
Provo UT
Jonathan Adams   Provo UT
Awesome climb. I really loved it. You just have to watch out for all the loose rocks everywhere. At the belay station at the top of P1 I just about sent a basketball sized boulder down towards my belayer. I stopped it before it fell, but beware of loose rocks and holds all over the place. Sep 7, 2009
Broseph L
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Broseph L   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Make sure to stay on route with these climbs, it is really easy to get mixed up around on the 2nd pitch. Also, watch out for the loose jug on the second pitch of 3/4 climb Aug 12, 2009
Josh G  
Did an inadvertent cool variation today, combined the roof of Good Plantains with the upper face of Dancing. Aug 7, 2009
Jeff Jones
Elk Ridge, UT
  5.10a
Jeff Jones   Elk Ridge, UT
  5.10a
Outstanding!! This was a bit of an adventure as I did not read anything before climbing the route (and Kip was not a lot of help). I did not know where the chains were on P1 and then I missed the split to the left for this route. Kip and I ended up traversing the ledge on Brain to get to the last belay station for this route. The last pitch was much better than expected but I really enjoyed the entire thing.

CLIMB THESE ROUTES!!! They will clean up faster and get better with age.

I did think that for the most part is was easy climbing but there are a couple of spots on P1 that I thought were .10a and one spot on P3 that was at least 5.8-5.9. Long slings are definitely helpful. Nov 25, 2008
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
Well, my wife was a debutante... Nov 23, 2008
Lee Jensen  
 
Perin, how about a bit of backgound on the name choice for this route. Nov 22, 2008
John Ross
Wasatch Front, UT
  5.9
John Ross   Wasatch Front, UT
  5.9
The whole route is fun but the last pitch is the best. Nov 21, 2008