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Routes in Godzilla Buttress

Don't Pet The Tiger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Godzilla S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Laser breath S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sayonara S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Troglodyte Trot S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Dave Kennedy, 1995
Page Views: 925 total, 8/month
Shared By: KraigP on Nov 19, 2008
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

An awesome route. Solid moves and epic climb that is a must do at the Poway crag. You can run it out after the 3rd bolt and before the first or place pro.

Location

3rd route from the left. rap off

Protection

3 Quickdraws, Anchor Material, and Pro to 3"

Photos

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jeffblankman
San Diego, Ca
 
jeffblankman   San Diego, Ca
 
PS - 60m rope WILL get you to solid ground (w/rope stretch). As previously mentioned, though, if you're uncertain, walk off or rap down DPtT. Mar 8, 2016
jeffblankman
San Diego, Ca
 
jeffblankman   San Diego, Ca
 
Leave the big cams at home if you're confident placing nuts: the dihedral eats 'em up. Bring a full set of nuts and a few (4-5) cams fingers to small hands. Save the .75 cam to place up high in a nice crack above the bolts.

This is a "full value" climb--one of the longest in SD--with tons of variation in the climbing: dihedral, pulling a small roof on positive holds, desperate smearing/mantel, and some crack at the top!

I think it would also be possible to traverse left at the top of the dihedral (before clipping the 1st bolt) and link into the upper "trad" section of Trogolodyte Trot, to make this into a fully trad climb. haven't tried it, yet, but looks like it would protect well. Just avoid drag with alpine draws. Apr 28, 2014
Despite the initial mediocre rock found up through the left-facing dihedral, this IS an awesome route. Exiting right from the top of dihedral, you begin a series of wild, improbable moves, past three rusty 3/8" bolts, up the steep, smooth, in-your-face cheeks of granite. Once found, the holds are amazing.

From the base, easy scrambling reaches the left-facing dihedral. I found only two gear placements in the dihedral, which felt like 5.8 and reminded me of Chicken Fart at Mission Gorge. Bring at least two #3.5 Cams for those placements. A #4 C4 (or equivalent Dragon Cam) may fit even better than a 3.5 in the upper of the two ~3.5" placements. This is just before you begin committing moves to the first bolt (which is about 50 feet above the base). Above the third bolt is a good short crack that takes .75 and .5 Cams.

The anchor bolts are at least 110 feet above the base. One of the anchor bolts is new and shiny; the other two are rusty. There are no rings for rapping or lowering. You could rap from Tiger or walk off. Jan 9, 2014
FA recorded as Dave Kennedy, 1995 Nov 20, 2008