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Coffin Roof
5.12,
Trad, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 3.9 from 19
votes
FA: Steve Hong in 1980
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Coffin Buttress
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed. Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Power fingerlocks and pinches take you to a sloper. Another pinch and finger crack take you up and over the lip. Follow a 5.7 crack to the top of the Coffin.
This was the first 5.12 in LCC
Location
Above the Coffin crack, left side. Need to climb the first pitch of the Coffin to the roof. Traverse left to a bolted belay...get ready to power up.
[Hide Photo] Merrill Bitter on a successful ascent, early 1980's
[Hide Photo] In my white bell bottoms on what I recall was most likely the second free ascent of Coffin Roof 1981 Glory days, well, they'll pass you by Glory days, in the wink of a young girl's eye Glo…
[Hide Photo] Aiding the coffin roof. I dont really feel worthy posting this next to the previous pictures... Goes at C1. Good practice!
[Hide Comment] hmmm, and he just told me he was outa shape - yea right :) Was up there last night and there is a pretty purple flower to greet you as you clear the roof - not saying I saw it up close though...
Jun 23, 2009
[Hide Comment] Early coffin roof history. 1st assent of the roof was by Ellsworth and Mcquarry in 1964. Yes they used direct aid, everybody did in those days. a glorious age "when men were men and 5.8 was nailed". They finished the pitch above combining some aid with free climbing. Ellsworth used to take great slides with his instamatic. its a shame he disappeared with his slides, he had a great set from his assent of the "Marshall Route" on the "PAWN". Lenny Nelson S.L.C. 30 aug 2018
Aug 30, 2018
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
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SLC, UT
Was up there last night and there is a pretty purple flower to greet you as you clear the roof - not saying I saw it up close though... Jun 23, 2009
Salt Lake City, UT
youtube.com/watch?v=2n2VVTU… Apr 16, 2010
SLC, UT