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Routes in Sports Crag

Albatross, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Home Field Advantage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Killuminati T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Leaner, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shock the Monkey T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio & Mark Rolofson, Fall 1983
Page Views: 855 total · 7/month
Shared By: Ben Schmitt on Nov 17, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

This exceptionally fine steep crack is any trad climbers dream, with great gear, hard moves, clean rock, safe falls, and best of all pump factor that keeps you desperatly jamming with lactic acid bloated arms until the very end. Every gear placement can be seen from the ground, taking finger-to hand sized peices in the lower roof, do a fun technical steep crux, thread your fingers the natural ring and place a fist sized piece, and traverse out the last part of the roof doing gaston hand jams and clever footwork to pull around the corner to a nice 5.7 crack to the top.

Location

Right in the middle of the sport cliff, this is the obvious, steep roof crack just left of Fiddler Under the Roof, and right of The Albatross.

Protection

(In BD Camalots) doubles from #0.3s to #2s, and one #3 (fist-sized) for the middle of the roof. There is an old sling at the top, which is looking a bit worst for wear, with a quicklink. Bolted anchor anyone? Or shall we replace it with another sling to rot?

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Drew Thayer
Denver, CO
Drew Thayer   Denver, CO
This excellent route now has two good bolts with hangers at the anchor. May 3, 2011
This route may have just gotten harder: I pulled a rather large piece off from inside the crack just before the route goes vertical. It's now wide enough for, probably, a #4 Camalot. Not sure how that will affect the grade, but it freaked me out...glad my belayer was way under the overhang. May 28, 2012
Here is a correction on the FA date: Fall 1983. This info can be found in an old Climbing magazine (#82 - February 1984). This route was climbed on the same day as the first ascent of "Moonage Daydream" (.12b) by Rolofson & D'Antonio. May 23, 2017
Ben Schmitt
  5.12a
Ben Schmitt  
  5.12a
Thanks, Mark, this is classic! May 23, 2017

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