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Routes in The Skillet

Angry Angler T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Black Eyes and Spam T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Camel Head, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chubby Pickle Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Entropy T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Flying Zapato S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Eggs & Ham T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Span S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Laser Beams S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lightning Bug S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mado Skates S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nose Job S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
One For The Road T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sharp Edge S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silver Surfer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Snag S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Steroid Milkshake Mixer T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Technician, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Throwing For Jesus S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Thunder Fairy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Matt Samet, Kasey Cordell, BJ Sbarra, Luke Laeser, June 2005
Page Views: 757 total · 7/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Nov 17, 2008
Admins: Jason Smith, Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Climb up weird dihedrals past two bolts and a few gear placements. The second bolt is clipped from a ledge and "protects" the crux move up into a lieback/stem. Why this bolt wasn't placed two feet higher, and why the hangers were spray painted after they were installed, I'm not sure, but the movement on the route is decent.

Protection

Single set of cams and two draws.

Location

To be filled/edited in.

Photos

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Mick S
Utah
 
Mick S   Utah
 
This is a decent route with nice movement, but I would not suggest placing cams behind the block at the top.... May 4, 2017
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
Apparently the huge block that forms the upper crack on this route is now moving, approach with extreme caution. The locals are working on a solution. May 18, 2009
Jamie Hozack
Carbondale, CO
 
Jamie Hozack   Carbondale, CO
 
First, much respect to the style of the first ascent. Second, the crux occurs with that original bolt at your waist or thigh, so why move it? The following block/crack section takes protection and offers good stances. Fixed-protection-alteration needed? I don't think so (but I'm no ethics referee).

The posted description is lame for a route that I really enjoyed, so I'll offer this:
This is an interesting route on great rock in a beautiful location, and it has a variety of fun moves. It seems steeper than it looks, but that's coming from me, and I'm a wuss. Small stoppers work well for the middle section, and help protect a middle crux scaling the corner that would be very exposed were that new, lower bolt not there. (Then again, you can do it with a piece in at eye-level, which is how I imagine the FA was done.) The original, upper bolt protects a tenuous move or two up into a reliable layback. A cam or two, up to 1", will protect the crack. Enjoy the view. Dec 31, 2008
If this route were in Eldo, there'd be a line. Old-school 5.11a with interesting moves and good pro. Nov 22, 2008
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
Matt put this up on the lead and as I remember that was as high as he could get the bolt. The lower bolt was added and the hangers were camouflaged later by another party, with permission. Nov 17, 2008