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Routes in Hole in the Rock

Chicken Wire S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hole In The Rock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
If The Fall Doesnt Kill You A Car Will S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Layback Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Outer Rim T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Sudden Exposure S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twinkle Toes T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Tom Burton 2001
Page Views: 2,055 total, 19/month
Shared By: Riddler on Nov 16, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

This route is pretty exciting for a roadside 5.8 sport climb. Get to the upper ledge by either climbing one of the lower pitches or hiking up and around. Walk out on the ledge and have your belayer anchor in at the bolts. Traverse out to the right all the way to the arete. DO NOT knock any rocks off or you could have a serious lawsuit on your hands. At this point you will have quite the view, and the cars racing by directly under you make it a little intimidating. Climb the arete past four bolts, then run it out to the anchors or bring a few small/medium pieces to protect the easy top section.

Location

Starts on the upper ledge next to "If the Fall Doesn't Kill You, a Car Will." A single rap lands you right back at the belay.

Protection

Four bolts and optional gear for the last 20 feet. The climbing after the last bolt is only about 5.5 so you may not want to bother with gear.

Photos

Lindsey Robinson
Salt Lake City, UT
Lindsey Robinson   Salt Lake City, UT
I also clipped the bolt by the belay station until I had traversed over to the route. There are 3 or 4 bolts at the belay station for your belayer or any additional climbers on the ledge. On the route, after the last bolt I did place a .5 cam to make it less runout. More of a confidence piece than anything. Apr 27, 2014
Awesome climb! Surprisingly scary due to the exposure right over the cars below.

(Also, if anyone picked up my size 8 Anasazi VCS's, I'd like them back. Left them up there on accident, came back the next day, and they were gone. :( Only used them for a month.) Jul 15, 2013
TS Burton
Ogden, Utah
TS Burton   Ogden, Utah
I bolted this route in 2001. My drill battery ran out at the top and I originally planned to return to place one last bolt. In the end, I figured the last bit of the climb was relatively easy and could be protected with trad gear. If you have climbed this arete, you will understand the route name ( the name was also a play on one of my favorite arete-routes at the City of Rocks, 'Sudden Pleasure'). Jul 3, 2013
WARNING. (3/30/2011) The block at the top is in ready to go. While threading the chains my right foot was on this large block. It shifted over an inch but did not go. Will fall and hit cars soon! Stay clear. Super fun climb. Apr 3, 2011
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.8
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
  5.8
This is a GREAT climb, if not a bit short. Stay right on the arete if you can, which has some good holds. The face has some places where the holds are quite sparse. The crux is between the 3rd and 4th bolts.

I recommend clipping the first bolt of the face climb to belay the leader as they traverse across the face, out to the arete. You can unclip that bolt once the leader gets to the second bolt on the arete, to minimize rope friction.

There is a great photo spot from just above the belay, where the evening sun illuminates the 'peery camp' wall across the canyon for this climb. Nov 5, 2009
oliver
 
oliver  
 
This was a really good climb. Being on the arete was pretty fun! The most intimidating part of the climb is trying not to knock anything off on to the cars below. Jun 30, 2009