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Routes in Little Shop of Horrors

American Graffiti S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Bingo's Revenge S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blade Runner S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dentist S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Elastique S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
La Bouef Rouge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Plant Food 5.11d/5.12a S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rage in Eden S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
TON-TON S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Ultimate Violence S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Glotfelty
Page Views: 1,227 total, 11/month
Shared By: Rick D on Nov 14, 2008
Admins: Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Crimpy. Pockets and crimps. If you stop at the cahins after the 6'th bolt, it's around 11.d. If you keep goin to the top, watch out for 12.a. First crux is between 4'th and 5'th. Next is between 6'th and chains.

Location

At the main wall, It's the farthest left route. Start just right of the dihedral. After the second bolt, head right.

Protection

7 bolts plus 2 draws for the top of the 5.11d section. 2 more bolts after the chains to get to the top.

Photos

TravisJBurke
Seattle, WA
  5.11a/b
TravisJBurke   Seattle, WA
  5.11a/b
Sad face...
Doug and I went out there yesterday. Massive chipping across much of the route--hold improvement at the first crux (eliminates the crux move), the pockets before the anchors have been deepened, hard to tell in the upper section...
I would suggest 11a now...maybe a/b, to the first anchor...Still hard over the top, but you have no pump from the much easier moves below now. Nov 19, 2016
Nick Niebuhr
Santa Fe, NM
Nick Niebuhr   Santa Fe, NM
Did this a few days ago, looks like someone added nice new bolts. And now there are 7 instead of 6 Apr 22, 2016