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Routes in Green Thumb

Bazooka T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 R
Diagonal Finger Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Face/Green Thumb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Far Niente S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gullwing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
L.A.S.T. aka Unknown Flakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Stainless Steele 'Rete T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zimbra S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Bobbi Bensman, Paul Piana, Dan Michael, 1989
Page Views: 1,075 total · 9/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Nov 13, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details


Loosely translated from Italian, Far Niente means doing nothing. However, with its slabby nature, airy feel and wickedly technical moves, climbing this beautiful, old school sport route is hardly nothing.

Solo up 15 feet of grey rock, and move left across a ledge until you are below the first bolt. Balance over the small roof, and levitate past the second bolt and the hardest moves using tiny pebbles, and edges. Although the difficulty eases off past the third bolt, the 5.11 climbing remains devious, slopey, off balance, and super thin.

If you are in the mood to climb a hard slab, Farniente won't disappoint. The rock is impeccable, the moves are fun, the route is stunningly pretty, and the view is unbeatable. Doing nothing is the last thing you will want to do when you see Farniente.


It is located on the SW face of the Green Thumb.


This route is equipped with ring bolts and a two bolt anchor with rap rings. For the more timid, it might be nice to have a stick clip for the first bolt. A 50 meter rope is needed to get back to the ground from the anchors.


Not to be a stickler for details, but....

The name of this climb is 'Far Niente' Two words. Sep 8, 2014

More About Far Niente