Type: Sport, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Dan Michaels
Page Views: 9,077 total · 61/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Nov 10, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details

Description

Unusually steep for the Flatirons, and peppered with pebbles and cobble stones, Slave to the Rhythm (STTR) is Boulder's little slice of Maple Canyon.

Climb an easy groove and traverse in from the left making some hard moves to gain an obvious set of huecos about 15 feet off the ground. From the huecos, make a long reach to a pebble (crux#1), and continue moving right using small pockets and cobbles until you reach the first good rest. After recovering, make a couple of more right trending moves and then crank through a very pumpy section of pebbles and cobbles (crux#2) that ends at a horizontal break. When you feel rested, kneebar past a very steep, right facing lieback feature (crux #3) to the chains. If you are pumped, clipping the anchors could be challenging.

Besides the huge hike and a little traversing, there is nothing bad to say about this route. The moves are fun, the rock is great, the holds are easy on the skin, and there is no glue or manufacturing. Too bad there aren't 50 more route just like it! Wait, there probably are, they just can't be bolted.

Location

STTR is located on the upper portion of the East Ironing Board. It is the middle of the three sport routes and is equipped with ring bolts. Look for three small huecos at the beginning of the route.

Protection

This route sports old ring bolts and a two bolt anchor with chains. Be prepared to stick clip the first bolt. You may also want a kneepad for the upper crux.

Beware: per Dr. Chris Lee, the 4th bolt (itself) spins and should NOT be considered safe!

Photos