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The Prize

5.5, Trad, 130 ft (39 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 37 votes
FA: Brooks Dodge & Mary Backus 1944 as TR. led later
New Hampshire > WM: Pinkham / P… > 06. Square Ledge (Pin…

Description

History: The FA was made in 1944 by Brooks Dodge and Mary Backus.

The Prize ascends the far left side of the main face, about 20 feet left of Standard Route. Following a thin crack system most of the way, the climbing is a little less fun and varied than that on Standard Route. However, this climb is still worthwhile, especially given it's ideal position above scenic Pinkham Notch.

Begin climbing at the base of the buttress, right where the hiking trail hits the rock. Navigate easy terrain around a bush. Continue with more difficulty up the discontinuous crack system, but using mainly face holds. Either establish an awkward belay at half height or keep going. The crux is a slight bulge in the slab as the climber nears the top. Move up this steeper section with scant protection making easy but balancy moves. Alternatively, break right into Standard Route at around 80 feet. Gear and tree anchor at top.

Location

Far left side of the main face. First climb you will see on the approach.

Protection

Takes excellent passive pro for most of it's length. The bulge near the top is unprotected and probably means a 20 foot runout on easy terrain. This crux section is easily avoided to the right at 5.3 or 5.4.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

"The Prize" far left on Sq. Ledge's front face
[Hide Photo] "The Prize" far left on Sq. Ledge's front face

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Russ Keane
Salt Lake
[Hide Comment] I found this line to be much easier than 5.5. I couldn't really find a trad line on the main face that was 5.6 or even 5.5. Kind of soft ratings if you ask me.

That being said, good rock, good pro, and reasonably fun, especially with that most commanding view behind you! May 28, 2014
Eric Nguyen
Natick, MA
  5.5
[Hide Comment] Fun climbing with a spectacular view the whole way up. I wouldn't necessarily recommend as a first lead due to a few run-out sections and tricky gear placement - very little that is straightforward. With that said, bomber parallel cracks at the top for an anchor. Also worth noting that there is lots of lichen on the rock about halfway up. Not sure if this is due to lack of climbing or if the route bears right. Either way, be prepared to move right to avoid this crunchy section! Jul 1, 2015
Carter Owens
New Hampshire
[Hide Comment] Really fun climb with less obvious pro/holds than Standard. Can confirm that lichen is still all over the rock and forces you to bear right, which is OK; but bring a couple slings to help with the rope drag. Used a tree anchor on top and extended master point- worked great. Sep 17, 2021