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Routes in High Neb Buttress

Cave Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
High Neb Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Neb Edge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Inaccessible Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Friends T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quietus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tango Buttress T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tango Crack T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Joe Brown 1954
Page Views: 398 total · 3/month
Shared By: rdlennon on Nov 10, 2008
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

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Rated E2 5c. This intimidating roof is an all-time peak district classic, and still a great testpiece despite being ascended over 50 years ago! The route climbs an overhanging crack to a tricky, blank corner before continuing more easily up horizontals and twin cracks to the base of the roof. From here, trend right out the roof on flakes, protecting in the crack off left. The lip pull is the crux, and usually involves a jam in the left hand crack and yes, some thrutching.


Can't-miss roof, the centerpiece of High Neb.


Several hand-sized pieces. Good gear for most of the length, with small nuts in the blank inside corner. Walk off left down the trail to the base.



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