All Locations > International > Europe > United Kingdom > England > The Peak District > Stanage Edge > The High Neb Area > High Neb Buttress
High Neb Buttress
Avg: 3 from 4 votes
Routes in High Neb Buttress
|Cave Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|High Neb Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|High Neb Edge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Inaccessible Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Old Friends T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Quietus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Tango Buttress T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Tango Crack T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Type:||Trad, 40 ft|
|FA:||Ivar Berg 1914|
|Page Views:||50 total, 0/month|
|Shared By:||rdlennon on Nov 9, 2008|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell|
DescriptionOne of the best routes on gritstone and a perennial favorite, High Neb Buttress is a classic test of balance and technique. It follows the face of the eponymous buttress, and from below looks like almost every other slabby Stanage face climb. Once on it, however, it is immediately apparent that this route is special.
There are several starts to the route: Tackle the tough finger crack at the base of the buttress, climb the blocks spilling out of the gully to gain the left arete of the buttress, or follow a jug rail out of the cave to reach the center of the face. Option #3 is highly recommended.
Climb to a small ledge in the center of the face. Using small edges and high steps, gain a large horizontal that takes good gear. A few more balancy moves lead to the crux: a 5 foot blank section between two good horizontals. Think about the move (heady on lead, easily done statically) and execute it with surprising ease. Continue on slopey horizontals to the top and a belay.
5.8 doesn't really describe the climb. VS 4c does.