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Routes in High Neb Buttress

Cave Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
High Neb Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Neb Edge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Inaccessible Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Friends T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quietus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tango Buttress T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tango Crack T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Fred Piggott
Page Views: 25 total, 0/month
Shared By: rdlennon on Nov 9, 2008
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

Cave Buttress climbs the rightmost buttress of High Neb. Starting at a low blank section, trick your way up into an immense sidepull jug. Follow flakes and jugs for about 25 feet until you are under the roof. An E1 5b continues out the overhung crack straight ahead. Protect well, then do an exposed traverse out right, using a ledge for feet and patting around for invisible hands. Upon reaching a diagonal flake system, climb up to an intimidating, holdless topout.

5.6 is an unfair rating for this climb, as YDS isn't applicable in the Peak District. The climb is given S 4b in guides.

Location

On the far right end of High Neb. Obvious roofed buttress that resembles Quietus.

Protection

Takes good passive pro until the traverse. Here, cams would work in a vertical slot, but there are some unprotected (but easy) moves before and after. Protect the flake well before the topout mantle!

Photos

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