Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Back to the Wall

5.7, Trad, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 31 votes
FA: Glen Dickenson, Cindy Zarlengo (1984)
Arizona > Central Arizona > *Phoenix Areas > McDowell Mountains > Morrell's Wall Parkin…
Warning Access Issue: Access: DetailsDrop down

Description

Climb to first bolt, then out on face to large Chockstone, crux around below it to more face climbing.

Location

Southernmost boulder pile, South-facing about 40 ft East of Westernmost section of the pile.

Protection

3 bolts

Medium Cams with runners

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climbing Back to the Wall
[Hide Photo] Climbing Back to the Wall
The route. Usually, a cam would go under the chock as the second piece of pro between the first 2 bolts
[Hide Photo] The route. Usually, a cam would go under the chock as the second piece of pro between the first 2 bolts
Moving out from under the chockstone. Awkward?
[Hide Photo] Moving out from under the chockstone. Awkward?
Near the top.
[Hide Photo] Near the top.
Above the crux and after clipping the second bolt. Another cam above and to the right is helpful before exiting above this area. Note, in May, ravens nest above this chockstone. Be nice to the birdies.
[Hide Photo] Above the crux and after clipping the second bolt. Another cam above and to the right is helpful before exiting above this area. Note, in May, ravens nest above this chockstone. Be nice to the b…
Placing a cam under the Chockstone before the crux--above the first bolt.
[Hide Photo] Placing a cam under the Chockstone before the crux--above the first bolt.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Scott Frankel
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Really nice route. The lowest bolt has been clipped (not sure why) so there are only 3 bolts on this route. The top has three bolts for anchoring. Dec 17, 2011
William Nelson
Cave Creek, AZ
[Hide Comment] Fun lead. Haven't done this for a year it's easier than I remember. Easiest 5.7 trad/mixed route in PP or McDowells. .5 and .75 BD C4 and three quick draws protect this. Apr 3, 2013
Scar D
 
[Hide Comment] This one looked and behaved like a bit of challenge in the initial stages but that was just a mental thing. Once up on the wall, I just loved this route. Would love to go and do it again someday. Jan 13, 2019
Bryan Baker
Surprise, AZ
  5.8- PG13
[Hide Comment] Warnings:

1. On TR the top two bolts need to be used as directionals. If you do not do this anyone who falls will pendulum about 20 feet right and potentially deck into the wall.
2. LOOSE FLAKE near the top (or what looks like the top from the ground. It sounds very hollow. Would not recommend using this. Go right at the flake to avoid it.

I found this to be a tough lead and (I'm ashamed to say), bailed after finally getting a cam in the chockstone. I am a new trad leader (less than 30 leads) and I prefer routes with secure feet
and ample opportunities for pro. Just posting for other newbie trad leaders out there. Also, as noted, the first bolt has been chopped. This forces you right to place gear and that gets you far away from subsequent bolts. However, I had a BLAST on this on TR. Talk about fun movement!!! Apr 29, 2023