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Routes in Main Area

Ancient Sea Friends S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bootlegger S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Both Get Hard On Top S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Calling All Pro T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Distillery Edge S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Edge of Darkness S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fist of Gold S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fright Flight S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gold Nugget S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
High Banker S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Moon Shine S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
My First Rodeo T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Next Time, Send a Card S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nice Stems TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prohibition T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prospector S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prospector Traverse T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Providence Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Regurgitated Bird S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Return to Sender S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Slimestone Cowboy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Step by Step S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Texas Two Step T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
What's Left T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
What's Up T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Courage S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR, 65 ft
FA: James Dolph
Page Views: 445 total, 4/month
Shared By: James Dolph on Nov 8, 2008
Admins: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug

You & This Route


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Description

oute starts at the tip of the buttress about 50 feet to the right of Providence Crack. Climb the slab, spine to the right, then up to the giant wedge missing from the face. stem and finger crack then stick the hold on the left of the roof. swing out, partial mantel, backstep stem, work up to the top. crux moves at the top.

Location

50 feet right of providence crack

Protection

Top rope natural anchors, trees, with 30 foot webbing. CAUTION, first ledge and backstep stemming at the crux has loose rock.

Photos

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Marcus Floyd
columbia, mo
Marcus Floyd   columbia, mo  
1990's Trad line: Too Wiered For Words was a bold lead for sure. Listed in the 1998 climbing guide book as a TR, this route was not reccommended for future trad ascents because of the lack of protection. Feel free to give the route a try via pure trad style or try to head up the flake to the right then out right of the dihedral to the upper left-facing crack. Goodluck!

This gem, now a bolted sport line, was a trad line that surely needed the bolts. At the same time, the top of this route is no less dicy than Providence Crack's trad finish! Good job Kevin. I also like the new name. No one knew it as Nice Stems.
Dec 3, 2011
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
I bolted this route last summer and is now called Ancient Sea Friends, although after the fact it came to my attention that it was once climbed about a decade ago as a very ballsy gear climb by Ben Williams. No matter what you call it or how you climb it, this is a cool route in a cool area. Jan 21, 2011
Elijah Flenner
  5.10d
Elijah Flenner  
  5.10d
This route now has six bolts and a two bolt anchor.

The crux involves a hard to see hold at the very top. Careful getting to the last bolt, and I would advise not taking too many falls with the rope running on the edge of the roof. Sep 27, 2010