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Routes in Spray Wall

Anger Management V11 8A
Becoming, The V10 7C+
Dad Speaks Parley S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dan Speaks Darrly S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dark Arts, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Kerosene Milkshake V6 7A R
Mungamatic (submitted as Name Unknown) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Only Entertainment S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Outre Salvo S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Pagan Wisdom S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Randy Speaks Farsi S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rapture S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Spew S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Spray S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Spray Direct S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Surefire S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Ben Schmitt
Page Views: 1,817 total, 16/month
Shared By: Ben Schmitt on Nov 6, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

With the generous permission of Ian-Spencer Green and Stewart, I rebolted part of Pagan Wisdom and this route to yield a clean, impressive, and futuristic line that used to be called "New Dawn Fades". This route starts just right of Rapture, and follows two bolts of 5.10 climbing to an absolutely show stopping, 8 foot dyno from sloping jugs to a brick in the roof (which has room for one hand, slopes the wrong way and is harder to hold than a greased pig!), then finish up the "easier" part of the climb, Pagan Wisdom.

The name implies a bizarre explosion, which is what's needed to get through the crux....

Location

Right smack in the middle of the Spray Wall shield, below Pagan Wisdom....

Protection

7 bolts and chains.

Photos

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Ben Schmitt  
 
Darryl, I appreciate the positive comments, and also the incredible amount of work you and Dan put into making hard routes for my generation in the pikes peak region. I think that sometimes people overlook how much effort it is to create new things, and hopefully more visionary new climbers from The Springs can help take it to the next level.... Aug 17, 2009
If I could climb it, I'd give it four stars. You look awesome in the video Ben. Keep pushing and bringing what's possible to the Pikes Peak Region! Jul 22, 2009
Nice video on mvm of this rig. Jun 30, 2009
Ben Schmitt  
 
Thanks Stewart! I really appriciate you and Ian letting me do this thing, you guys have put alot of great work into elevenmile, I'm so psyched about the number of new quality routes going up! Jun 8, 2009
Great job, Ben! I'm glad you were able to get this project done. Jun 2, 2009