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Bob Dylan Did Drugs

V5, Boulder, 12 ft (4 m),  Avg: 3 from 26 votes
FA: unknown
Pennsylvania > S Central PA > Whiskey Springs > Cranking Area

Description

This great problem climbs out a low, sculpted roof on good holds spaced far apart. It has a fairly intricate sequence but will reward what effort is put into it.

Sit start at the very lowest point on hard-to-find undercling edges. Pull on and move to a crimp further out the roof. Left hand to a crimpy horizontal crack, then right to a blocky hold higher up. Cross right to an excellent undercling jug (kneebar!), and consider the last few moves. With the right hand, move to an insecure pinch on the lip of the boulder. Shift some feet, and make a large move to a crystally sloper on the apex of the boulder. Top out, making sure to not hit your head on the limb above the boulder.

NOTE!

Sometime in Early December of 2022 one of the most crucial and largest holds on this climb broke off, it climbs very differently and is likely a grade harder.   

Location

Off the left side of the AT between the Entrance and Cranking areas. Obvious low, sculpted roof on a squat, clam shaped boulder. Walk off.

Protection

Pad or two. There is a boulder immediately to the left of the cave that you might want to protect.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The hold in the red circle no longer exists
[Hide Photo] The hold in the red circle no longer exists
Preparing to crush.
[Hide Photo] Preparing to crush.
first v5!
[Hide Photo] first v5!
bob dylan
[Hide Photo] bob dylan
Dylan
[Hide Photo] Dylan
Dylan roof
[Hide Photo] Dylan roof

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jacob A
 
[Hide Comment] Great climb, my favorite in this area. Climbed it in fall 2014 and there was a slightly loose hold. Came back in spring 2015 and it was still there. It was not that loose and I could still use it, but it did move a little when you put weight on it. Other then that this is a classic. Powerful moves, good holds and clean falls. For me the hardest part was the mantle top out but that may just be because I am bad at top outs. May 28, 2015
Dan Cannaday
Mechanicsburg, PA
[Hide Comment] Alternate Beta - (not necessarily easier but worked for me) after getting left hand in slot and right up to blocky crimp, flip left hand to undercling and then bump it up to undercling pinch. Makes the move to the arete a compression move and then rt heel hook and grab the top. Jan 1, 2020
Dillon Bennett
Newville, PA
  V6-
[Hide Comment] In December of 2022 one of the largest and most critical hold on this climb broke off, it now climbs much differently and must be climbed almost straight out of the cave ignoring the route previously taken. One option is match on the slopery flat face below the undercling jug, with the assistance of matched toe hooks, and bump one hand to undercling jug directly above. May 16, 2023