Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,292 total · 11/month
Shared By: rdlennon on Nov 5, 2008
Admins: Justin ., Kyle Stapp, SCPC

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

This great problem climbs out a low, sculpted roof on good holds spaced far apart. It has a fairly intricate sequence but will reward what effort is put into it.

Sit start at the very lowest point on hard-to-find undercling edges. Pull on and move to a crimp further out the roof. Left hand to a crimpy horizontal crack, then right to a blocky hold higher up. Cross right to an excellent undercling jug (kneebar!), and consider the last few moves. With the right hand, move to an insecure pinch on the lip of the boulder. Shift some feet, and make a large move to a crystally sloper on the apex of the boulder. Top out, making sure to not hit your head on the limb above the boulder.

Location

Off the left side of the AT between the Entrance and Cranking areas. Obvious low, sculpted roof on a squat, clam shaped boulder. Walk off.

Protection

Pad or two. There is a boulder immediately to the left of the cave that you might want to protect.

Photos

Jacob A
 
Jacob A  
 
Great climb, my favorite in this area. Climbed it in fall 2014 and there was a slightly loose hold. Came back in spring 2015 and it was still there. It was not that loose and I could still use it, but it did move a little when you put weight on it. Other then that this is a classic. Powerful moves, good holds and clean falls. For me the hardest part was the mantle top out but that may just be because I am bad at top outs. May 28, 2015