PRINT: Rock Climb Hobbit's Pockets, Smith Rock

Hobbit's Pockets

5.10d, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),

Avg: 1.7 from 13 votes
FA: Erik Wolfe/?
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (f) Cocaine Gully

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

Climb past steep pockets and face moves to an anchor

Location

This route is located on the lower left side of Cocaine Gully, downhill from Crack Babies close to the gully chockstone. Look for pockets low on route. The climb to the left is .11b and may be loose.
Feel free to update information and I will modify as needed.

Thanks, Erik

Protection

7? bolts, anchors

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tye Wilhelm
Eugene

By this point in our trip I didn't have much for skin on my finger tips, the pockets presented many welcoming jugs. It took me longer to beta the first bolt than to finish the route. Bouldery start with a toe hook and hand match to reach first pocket. I should invest in a clip stick Aug 15, 2020

E MuuD

5.10d

The bottom is a good warmup for crimping - the rest has interesting movement unfortunately on choss. May 21, 2025

Adam Audette
Bend, OR

5.10d

The original name of this route is Baked Mudfest, which is totally appropriate for the second half, and for most of this wall. The first part of the route is on quality rock, however, with good puzzling moves. May 22, 2025