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Routes in Chli Bielenhorn

Hägar T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kater Garfield T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Millius T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Perrenoud T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sacremotion T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 48 total · 0/month
Shared By: Colin Winter on Nov 4, 2008
Admins: Dan Flynn

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Description

A quality, challenging route on the left side of the wall.

Pitch one, 3c – a scramble to gain position for the proper climbing to follow.

Pitch two, 6a+ - physical at first on near-vertical terrain with good holds, followed by a very tricky section to ascend a flaring crack.

Pitch three, 6b – think donkey kong junior, but replace the vines with thin cracks. Splendid bridging between two of them, followed by some very delicate moves to gain another, thin one on the left, where the fun continues. If you’re feeling good about yourself from all the swiss dairy you’ve been consuming, you can do the diretissimo finish to the pitch, ascending a very, very bleak slab. For those choosing the path of least resistance, a small detour from the most direct line makes the finish much easier.

Pitch four, 6a – The final pitch, while slightly more moderate than its predecessors, is nevertheless engaging, and very enjoyable. Initially traversing out and right, around a big flake, the line then continues upwards and elegantly navigates up a corner to the left of a small roof.

Location

The route is on the left side of the main south wall.

The route begins with a scamble up and left in a grassy gully. The name of the route is very faintly marked on the rock.

Descent is by abseil back down the route.

Protection

The route is protected with intermittent bolts. One is well advised to bring a moderate assortment of gear to complement the fixed stuff.

Photos

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