Type: Sport, 500 ft, 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,270 total · 43/month
Shared By: Colin Winter on Nov 4, 2008
Admins: Dan Flynn, Mark P.

You & This Route


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Description

And now for something completely different….

Is it silly? Perhaps. Is it nevertheless worth doing? Definitely. The exposure on this sheer, concave wall is incredible. Following the plastic is a straightforward yet, particularly in the final two overhanging pitches, awesome experience.

The route is 165 meters in length, with five pitches. You have to pay a small fee for the pleasure, which you do at the little restaurant at the top of the dam. That is also where you can get a key that unlocks a ladder you’ll need to access the route (which begins a good distance off the ground).

The dam is at around 1400 meters above sea level, and is west-facing.

When you get to the top (final belay is the railing that runs across the top of the dam), you walk back across the damn to the restaurant, and back down the road to the carpark at the base of the dam.

More information and topos can be found in the Schweiz plaisir-sud or the SAC Ticino guidebook.

Location

From Blenio, a small road provides access to Campo and from there on to Aquilesco. At Aquilesco a very small, windy road climbs up out of the valley floor and makes its way to the base of the dam, before continuing up to the reservoir above.

Protection

The route is very well protected with bolts.

Photos

Be prepared physically. This is a long route. My arms were cramping so bad by the last two pitches that I could barely extend them. It took a good five minutes of shaking and stretching to get that lactic acid out after each pitch. Jan 10, 2011
FourT6and2 ...
San Francisco, CA
FourT6and2 ...   San Francisco, CA
I'm planning a trip to Switzerland in October and thought this would be a great stop. Anybody know what the weather is like this time of year? And anybody know if there are any places to stay nearby? I figure this is almost like a gym route. And my limit in the gym is 12a, but I normally climb no problem in the mid 11b/c range. Is this route doable, ya think? Aug 15, 2016
FourT6and2 ...
San Francisco, CA
FourT6and2 ...   San Francisco, CA
Got there, and it's closed...

Road is shut down.

Restaurant is closed. Nov 1, 2016
Bobby Shih
New York, NY
Bobby Shih   New York, NY
When we came we discovered that a section of the only road leading up to the dam had fallen away due to an avalanche. It is, at this time, impossible to get up to the dam as construction crew work to rebuild the road.

It seems that a previous comment in November, 2016 indicated the road was closed. Not sure if it is because of the avalanche or not. Not sure when this thing will be fixed. From the looks of it, they aren't really close to done. Jun 21, 2017
Aaron E
 
Aaron E  
 
The dam is accessible and open to climbing. I did this route August 12, 2018. The rules say you must get the key to the ladder from the restaurant at the top of the dam...when its open. My experience with the employees of the restaurant was less than pleasant. Among other things, they wouldn't give us the key the night before so we could begin the route before 8am when they opened. They charge a €100 deposit plus €20 per person to climb. The climbing is super easy but long and exhausting. Hanging belays were uncomfortable to say the least. Overall it was fun experience. There is a go pro mount glued to the wall about 3 meters from the top that could be used to stage a camera. Aug 17, 2018