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The Automator
V13,
Boulder, Alpine,
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
FA: Dave Graham
Colorado
> Alpine Rock
> RMNP - Rock
> RMNP Bouldering…
> Chaos Canyon Bo…
> Lower Chaos Canyon
> Automator Boulder
Access Issue: Fragile Alpine Area
Details
This is a fragile alpine bouldering area and following Leave No Trace principles is important. Never stash pads. Do not alter landings, chip or glue holds, or remove or alter vegetation. Walk on hard surfaces such as boulders or established trails. Store your gear on boulders instead of dirt or vegetation. Clean up spilled chalk and tick marks and brush holds. Keep your presence low key and unobtrusive. Pack out everything you brought and anything else that shouldn't have been left there. RMNP rangers are very aware of the impact that bouldering has on this environment.
Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31.
Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP
website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures
website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted
here.
Description
This ultra-classic lowball starts on the obvious holds at the base of
Tommy's Arete and heads left across an amazingly perfect series of crimps and sloping edges. A heart-breaking crux awaits at the end. Basically it is a V10 into a V10, power-endurance all the way.
Location
It goes across the east face of the boulder.
Protection
A couple of pads is plenty.
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania