Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Tristan Higbee
Page Views: 452 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Nov 3, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This route is nothing special. It's easy, but it's dirty. There's a small drainage above this route. After every rain storm, more dirt and pebbles end up on the holds and ledges.

I bolted this route on lead mainly to just get on top of the lower big cliff of Squaw Peak (topping out on this roue gives you access to the giant ledge/terrace in the middle of Squaw Peak).

Location

The low-angled, far right end of Buckley's Mine Wall. Identifiable as the slabbiest portion of the wall.

Protection

4 bolts with chain anchors on top. There are two more bolts with hangers in some rock about 20 feet above this route, on the big ledge. I put those in so that I could fix a rope and shuttle gear up and down easily.

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Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
  5.7
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
  5.7
The route might be 5.6... Hard for me to say. I rope soloed it in approach shoes.

As the name suggests, you'll be alone here. It's kind of a fun area to explore. If you're skinny, you can explore the mine by squeezing in on the right side of the gate. On a little cliff under the main cliff, you can find more remnants of the mining operation, including the biggest friggin' bolts ever! (I'll post a pic of those when I get around to it...).

It's not worth the trip up here to climb this route. (And I haven't done the .11 to the left, so I can't vouch for its quality.) But hey, if you want a change of scenery and are hankering for a burly approach, have at it. Nov 3, 2008
The approach isn't so bad if you treat it as a pitch of something easier to get to(look forward to the journey rather than the destination). We topped out on skywalker after a morning of galaxy climbing and decided to explore around for a while. It was a great discovery for us, and we enjoyed the free air conditioning near by. Jun 18, 2012