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Routes in Main Cliff East

Can't hang V5 6C
Chaos V7 7A+
Cottonmouth T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Diamondback T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dicey For A Deuce V2 5+
Dicey For A Tres V3 6A
Fun Route, The V1-2 5
Hocus Pocus V9 7C
Jump for Joy V4 6B
Perch, The V8 7B
Project Cave V8+ 7B+
Smack Down V8 7B
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: John Freaney
Page Views: 1,727 total, 16/month
Shared By: sweatpants on Nov 2, 2008
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Quincy and at least parts of rattlesnake are state natural areas and thus closes to climbing. Please respect the ban. Details

Description

Problem starts with a bomber ledge for feet off to the right of start hands. Thrutch out left to increasingly good crimps. From there head up to increasingly better holds to top out.

Location

thru saddle. take a right and it is not far down on the right. It is apparently on the same wall and to the left of the 'project' i think. It is also just before the 'dicey' problems and also 'jump for joy'

Protection

pad on ground and one on rock directly behind you.

Photos

sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
 
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
 
ahh. I see. Aug 10, 2012
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  V7
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  V7
Sweaty, yes, everyone sit starts, but I think Ian is saying that the broken start hold (see Skyler's comment above) only made it a touch harder. Aug 10, 2012
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
 
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
 
not sure I understand homie... doesn't everyone start this as a sit start? Aug 10, 2012
Ian CB
 
Ian CB  
 
A bit harder to pull of the ground but not too much. Aug 9, 2012
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
 
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
 
Bummer! Jan 16, 2012
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  V7
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  V7
Skyler I have 2 thoughts about this.

1) You and Jeremy need to go to weight watchers before climbing any more classic Wisconsin boulder problems.

2) Thanks for cleaning up the problem and making it harder. We need more hard problems around here.

However, the true Wisconsin way of dealing with this would be to stay silent, then laugh to yourself over the next several years when people loudly complain that this problem is a sandbag. Jan 13, 2012
Skyler F.
La Crosse, WI
Skyler F.   La Crosse, WI
I'm sad to inform that part of the starting hold has broken. It was the right hand thumb catch. Although there is a small piece of it remaining, I believe it makes the pinch a bit harder to grasp. As I was unable to even get my ass off the ground, someone else will have to determine if the grade of the problem should be raised. Jan 12, 2012
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Nice Chris! Jun 1, 2010
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  V7
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  V7
Yes! Thanks Sweaty, nice eye on this line and on Jump For Joy. Matt and I both agreed Jump for Joy would be classic at any area.

Getting off the ground and to the crimps out left on Chaos was the crux, very hard moves, solid/hard V7 IMO. I fell off up higher once for inexplicable reasons; you can imagine the cursing that ensued. Fortunately it went the next go or I would have had to quit climbing permanently. May 31, 2010
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
 
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
 
congrats to eggnuts on the coveted and long awaited second ascent!!!!!! Well done sir. May 30, 2010
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
 
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
 
I hate u. Thank u. And ur welcome. May 7, 2009
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
Finally Freany has established a legitimate problem. This thing is hard! Good work sweaty. Thanks for the beta out there today. May 7, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
 
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
 
That's great man, I'm glad you liked it! Did you explore at all or find anything new? Mar 21, 2009
Very good problem John!!! Was really close to the send yesterday and it should go down next time i'm out there. Got all the moves worked out and now just need to put it together. Really cool, powerful crimping. I like it.

Cant comment too much about the grade right now as I haven't done it but it seems pretty solid at 7 points in my opinion. Who cares really, when the problem is so fun? Mar 20, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
 
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
 
its cause you're not manly enough to climb my problems... o wait you've climbed most all of them. haha. Dec 3, 2008
I couldn't get off the ground really. I'll have to try it fresher to have a better idea. Dec 2, 2008
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
 
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
 
thank you sir. props to Lisa Versino for those! I can't remember how much work you gave it when you were there? Thoughts on how it felt at all? Id like to make it back up there at some point to do some more looking around for sure. really awsome area. Not to mention the dogs loved it. Nov 18, 2008
Nice pics man! Nov 17, 2008
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
 
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
 
Thanks bud! Now I just need some people to go up there to get on it to see how hard the thing actually is... Nov 17, 2008
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Nice work Sweaty!- looks like a good, hard boulder problem. Cheers! Nov 17, 2008
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
 
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
 
also, im not sure about the grade. is suited me as it was souldery and utilized a heel hook for several moves. It could be harder but i dont think it's easier. or it could just be the right grade but lets be honest... how often does that happen? haha Nov 4, 2008
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
 
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
 
pics to come. i thought this was the project but i dont think it was... o well. lol. Nov 2, 2008