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Routes in Zappa Dome

Burnt Weenie Sandwich S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Conceptual Continuity S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Excentrifugal Forz S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Friendly Little Finger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grand Wazoo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It Might Just Be A One-Shot Deal S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Keep it Greasy S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Latent Appliance Fetish S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mud Shark S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Size Fits All S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Playground Psychotics S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Plooking & Thrashing S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Strictly Commercial S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Token of My Extreme S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Treacherous Cretins S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
We're Only In It For the Money S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weasels Ripped My Flesh S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
You Are What You Is S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Scott Ayers
Page Views: 1,453 total, 13/month
Shared By: Gerry Cook on Nov 2, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

The first bolt is high, but 5.8 leaders should have no problem reaching it. Easy start on low-angle 5.5 type holds. The route moves onto slab as the wall steepens. The route stays on nearly vertical slab climbing to the roof. The crux is probably a thin, airy move just above the roof. It continues on slab to the anchors but is less vertical.

Location

Third route from the right on Zappa Dome

Protection

Eight bolts. One hanger and one chain for anchors.

Photos

Nick Nystrom
Pittsburgh, PA
  5.8+
Nick Nystrom   Pittsburgh, PA
  5.8+
To add a vote to the debate above about the location of the first bolt, I found it to be absolutely fine. If there were a lower bolt, it wouldn't do much to mitigate the low-angle start anyway. Mar 11, 2017
BenJamN
Washington State
5.8+
BenJamN   Washington State
5.8+
Might be easy to 1st bolt but rock quality not quite stellar---a small tcu is useful to protect leader. A fall here would not be pretty. Jan 2, 2010
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
fun roof move Mar 6, 2009