Type: Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 728 total · 5/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Nov 2, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Power drilling is prohibited in the Organ Mountains Wilderness. Details


This route climbs a large slashing crack on the southern ridge of Little Squaretop Massif up to a large shoulder, and then continues along the ridge taking a the path of least resistance to the summit. The first pitch is a short scramble from the saddle (5.4) up to a large ledge beneath the steep South ridge which has an obvious slashing crack which ascends the entire ridge up to a large shoulder. The Slash/crack is the crux pitch and currently harbors some nice lichen growths. Despite this, the rock is predominately solid, and there are nice rest-stances between steep sections. The remaining pitches follow the ridge to the summit and many variations are possible.


This route starts from the Saddle between Organ Needle and Little Squaretop. Approach to the saddle is the same as the approach for Northwest Ridge on the Organ Needle.


Light alpine rack. Large cams (#3 or 4) could be used more security for the crux pitch, but a resourceful leader can get by without them.