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Routes in Little Squaretop Massif

Lagrangian Formalism T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pirates of the Carabiner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Second Peak Syndrome T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sickle Cell Anemia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slung Horn T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Watch Your Aspens T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 407 total, 4/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Nov 2, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

This route climbs a large slashing crack on the southern ridge of Little Squaretop Massif up to a large shoulder, and then continues along the ridge taking a the path of least resistance to the summit. The first pitch is a short scramble from the saddle (5.4) up to a large ledge beneath the steep South ridge which has an obvious slashing crack which ascends the entire ridge up to a large shoulder. The Slash/crack is the crux pitch and currently harbors some nice lichen growths. Despite this, the rock is predominately solid, and there are nice rest-stances between steep sections. The remaining pitches follow the ridge to the summit and many variations are possible.

Location

This route starts from the Saddle between Organ Needle and Little Squaretop. Approach to the saddle is the same as the approach for Northwest Ridge on the Organ Needle.

Protection

Light alpine rack. Large cams (#3 or 4) could be used more security for the crux pitch, but a resourceful leader can get by without them.

Photos

Aaron Hobson
Clinton, TN
 
Aaron Hobson   Clinton, TN  
 
I'd be curious if any Organ Mountain climbers know if this route has been climbed before. Unlike many of the routes I have done in the Organs, there was no evidence of climbers having been up this ridge. But it is an obvious line and it's hard to imagine that it hadn't been explored by someone. Ingraham's guide simply states "a number of routes up the South Eastern end of the massif can be found" but it appears to me that he is talking about 4rth class routes to the summit. Nov 2, 2008