Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Kaandorp, Zabrok, De Maio F.F.A. Croft
Page Views: 5,436 total · 42/month
Shared By: chossmonkey on Oct 31, 2008
Admins: Dave Rone

You & This Route

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The route EVERYONE wants to do, but it rarely gets done. This nearly horizontal 30 foot roof is massive and split by a fist/hand crack that pinches to fingers just before the lip.

Climb the chossy looking face until it is possible to start using the crack. The rock is more solid than it looks, but use caution.

Climb the easy, slightly overhanging crack up to the roof then take a deep breath before leaning back and seeing how far away the lip looks. After choking back down the vomit, fight the pump and work your way out to the lip. The crux is gaining the lip. Once established at the lip it is easy climbing to the anchor.

The route seeps most of the year and the black rock can be extremely slippery. Once it drys out, the crack usually needs a light brushing the first time out it.

This route is best cleaned by aiding it on toprope. Some people just leave the roof fixed and pinkpoint. Knock at least a letter grade off if you do this.


At the far end of the cliff. 5-10 min from the B-MW. The second you see it you will know you are at it.


Cams up to #4 Camalot with doubles of the 3&4 sizes. A double of the #2 size can be useful for cleaning purposes. There are a few fixed wires on the section before the roof that are asked to be left in place. Lower from the anchor.


Did this as an aid climb sometime around 1997; great fun! There wasn't an anchor so we had to go pretty far back into the woods to find suitable anchors. It was pretty obvious why the free crux was right at the lip where it seemed you would have to use finger locks and cut your feet loose to swing them around so you were pointed feet first. The rest of the crack seemed to have pockets on the inner walls (it is limestone after all) that would be hard to find, but once you knew where they were they would be very helpful. Dec 9, 2008
Hurts! When I was working it I could only give it about 2 burns a day before my hands were mush. Protects well, but cams need to be in pods. Crux at the end goes multiple ways, but I found head first to be the easiest. Apr 24, 2017