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The Marjumhorn

5.11b, Sport, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3 from 4 votes
FA: FA. Tyler & Amy Phillips 6/02/05 FFA. Tyler P & Troy Andersen 6/25/05
Utah > W Desert > House Range > Marjum Canyon > Tower Ridge

Description

P1: Start on steep black face climbing up into obvious shallow dihedral system, from the top of the shallow dihedral move slightly right and up to a nice ledge and belay. 5.11b 115ft

P2: Climb up the deceptive slab/face making devious moves on good rock to a good belay ledge. 5.10d/11a 90ft

P3: From belay shuffle right around the corner to the north side of the tower, e-z climbing brings you past a old belay and to a missing bolt, commit to the "easy" move above the missing bolt to a clip. From here the pitch becomes sharp and really cool, don't forget to get on that arete and peer around the corner then ramble up to the ?"sidewalk in the sky"? summit. 5.8+ 115ft.

Location

This is the lookers left of the 2 towers. Look for an obvious bolt line on the front of the tower.

Descent: Rap route

Protection

Gear: 16 quickdraws, an optional #4 camalot and a few slings. A 70 meter rope, or (2) 50 meter ropes.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

topo
[Hide Photo] topo
Coming around P3 to the intermediate belay.
[Hide Photo] Coming around P3 to the intermediate belay.
Rapping P1.
[Hide Photo] Rapping P1.
Hilary coming up P2 after the crux.
[Hide Photo] Hilary coming up P2 after the crux.
View of Marjum Towers in 2012
[Hide Photo] View of Marjum Towers in 2012
First pitch on the 3rd ascent.
[Hide Photo] First pitch on the 3rd ascent.
Summit...
[Hide Photo] Summit...
Hilary coming up to the top of the first pitch.
[Hide Photo] Hilary coming up to the top of the first pitch.
Zak on the final rap
[Hide Photo] Zak on the final rap
Zak coming up the sharp 3rd and last pitch
[Hide Photo] Zak coming up the sharp 3rd and last pitch
Starting up the 1st pitch
[Hide Photo] Starting up the 1st pitch

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
[Hide Comment] Nice description, makes me think I could find the route and actually pull it off.

How about adding the length of each pitch? Nov 1, 2008
Jason Stevens
Ephraim, UT
[Hide Comment] Nice work, guys! I climbed that thing in 2002, got to the last bolt mentioned and the drill died. Never made it back to finish the last 40 feet.

Jason Stevens May 15, 2010
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
 
[Hide Comment] Climbed this on 4/19/14. From the summit register, last group to summit was 2006. The paper in the register is the consistency of papyrus at this point, and neither of the pens work. It would be rad if future parties bring up a better register/pens. Overall, a totally cool limestone tower, with a great summit.

Second pitch felt a little more technical than the first pitch, but both were great fun and well protected.

Don't underestimate the approach, takes about an hour up, and an hour down.

Super score by the first ascentionists! Thanks for lugging a drill and bolts up there!

Also, no need for a #4. Save the weight..... Apr 21, 2014
Tyler Phillips
Cottonwood Heights, UT
5.11b
[Hide Comment] Jason, it appeared you guys climbed up the backside of the tower. Is this the case? At any rate they both meet at the same spot, 40 feet from the summit. Write up your route! Cheers. Sep 25, 2014