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Routes in Tower Ridge

Marjumhorn, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: FA. Tyler & Amy Phillips 6/02/05 FFA. Tyler P & Troy Andersen 6/25/05
Page Views: 1,326 total · 12/month
Shared By: TylerPhillips on Oct 31, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

P1: Start on steep black face climbing up into obvious shallow dihedral system, from the top of the shallow dihedral move slightly right and up to a nice ledge and belay. 5.11b 115ft

P2: Climb up the deceptive slab/face making devious moves on good rock to a good belay ledge. 5.10d/11a 90ft

P3: From belay shuffle right around the corner to the north side of the tower, e-z climbing brings you past a old belay and to a missing bolt, commit to the "easy" move above the missing bolt to a clip. From here the pitch becomes sharp and really cool, don't forget to get on that arete and peer around the corner then ramble up to the ?"sidewalk in the sky"? summit. 5.8+ 115ft.

Location

This is the lookers left of the 2 towers. Look for an obvious bolt line on the front of the tower.

Descent: Rap route

Protection

Gear: 16 quickdraws, an optional #4 camalot and a few slings. A 70 meter rope, or (2) 50 meter ropes.


Jason, it appeared you guys climbed up the backside of the tower. Is this the case? At any rate they both meet at the same spot, 40 feet from the summit. Write up your route! Cheers. Sep 25, 2014
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
 
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
 
Climbed this on 4/19/14. From the summit register, last group to summit was 2006. The paper in the register is the consistency of papyrus at this point, and neither of the pens work. It would be rad if future parties bring up a better register/pens. Overall, a totally cool limestone tower, with a great summit.

Second pitch felt a little more technical than the first pitch, but both were great fun and well protected.

Don't underestimate the approach, takes about an hour up, and an hour down.

Super score by the first ascentionists! Thanks for lugging a drill and bolts up there!

Also, no need for a #4. Save the weight..... Apr 21, 2014
Jason Stevens
Ephraim, UT
Jason Stevens   Ephraim, UT
Nice work, guys! I climbed that thing in 2002, got to the last bolt mentioned and the drill died. Never made it back to finish the last 40 feet.

Jason Stevens May 15, 2010
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Nice description, makes me think I could find the route and actually pull it off.

How about adding the length of each pitch? Nov 1, 2008

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