PRINT: Rock Climb Dis-Mantel, The Gunks

Dis-Mantel

5.10b, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 2 from 48 votes
FA: Joe Strutt, Roy Kligfield, Jack Hunt 1973
New York > Gunks > Trapps > g. V3 - Middle Earth

Description

Dis-Mantel is a short but sweet climb up the center of the "Dis-Mantel" block which sits to the left of the Raunchy area.

The "gear shift" knob broke off the 5.9 version of this route some time ago, and Dick Williams says the route is now 10b. For someone tall like myself, it doesn't make much difference, and the upper ceiling is still the crux.

To the left of Dis-Mantel is Dat-Mantel, 5.10, and to the right, starting around the corner is Kernmantle 5.8. I always wanted to add another route and call it Mickey Mantle, but couldn't squeeze in another line.

Start near the middle of the face and pass a bulge on its left side (new crux?). Angle right and over a tricky ceiling (old crux). A little higher get a directional for your second head up to the bolted anchor that is between the two Mantle routes..

Location

The Dis-Mantel block sits between Brave Valkyrie and Raunchy. Unnamed climbs are on the left side this block.

Protection

Single set of cams and a few nuts. Long slings.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Rich Goldstone on the Mantle block, between the first and second cruxes.

first crux

Pulling the roof - Rich Goldstone.

Beginning the second crux - Rich Goldstone.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

monk

5.9+

I was conflicted about gear on the last roof. I got a good cam at the lip of the roof but I'm unsure about the rock quality. I warned my belayer to put on a helmet in case I fell and broke the rock.

Does anyone know what I'm talking about? Was I stupid to place the pro there?

BTW, I think Ivan is right that the route is height dependent. I'm 5'8" and I can *just* reach the good hold on the first roof. If I were any shorter I think it would be much harder. Nov 5, 2008

brian ivins

Uhmmmm. 5.9+? Is this in the parallel universe where Gunks 5.9 + (=) 5.10? I got up to that first mantle and got shut down, not wanting to chance my gf catching me (and this was after three weeks climbing in Eldo and the Valley!)

Good gear though. Yellow alien below the first mantle if I remember right. Definitely one to try again when I feel stronger. Mar 12, 2009

Brian
North Kingstown, RI

5.10b

It is a 5.10 in both Williams and Swain which I found to be about right and the first bulge is harder than the second "roof" for short people which is rated at 5.8 in Swain. Not that the difference between 5.9 and 5.10 is significant but I think that people who are substantially taller or shorter than average who rate climbs skew the ratings, particularly at the Gunks where many climbs are reach dependent.
5.10a for 5'9" or taller
5.10c? for under 5'9" Jun 23, 2009

lucander
Stone Ridge, NY

5.10b

First crux took me several falls to figure out (I'm 5'5"), the second roof is probably 5.8ish but a grunt. Feb 1, 2012

kenr	[Hide Comment] As Monk suggests, if shorter than 5ft8in w normal reach the lower crux is much harder - (perhaps more than 10b?). Not just finger strength, but a sort of awkward trick -- took me a lot of tries to work it out even after I saw it demonstrated. Aug 4, 2013

Gunkiemike

The grey Dick describes a second pitch at 5.7 PG. It's easily reached from the easier climbs (i.e. easier than 5.10) on either side of the big Mantle block. It goes up what looks to be an attractive piece of rock. The moves approaching the "first crux" overhang are fairly dirty however, and that's followed by a 5.5ish runout that is squarely in the R category IMO (DW calls it PG). Nice climbing however, so if you're looking for something to do after exhausting the Raunchy/Wild Horses lines, give it a look. Sep 1, 2015

Brian
North Kingstown, RI

5.10b

There is a shiny new anchor chain on top of the route now. Kind of half way between Dat and Dis Mantel. You have to look for it. Jun 28, 2018

Roy Kligfield
Boulder, CO

On the first ascent in 1973, I had great difficulty in convincing the usual suspects to join in the attempt. This was because this "Unnamed Boulder"--as the giant detached block was then called--was somehow viewed as unworthy of a full Shawangunk climb. When I led this initial pitch, there was a very large knob on the ceiling crux. I understand that the knob soon broke off raising the level of the climb from its initial grading of 5.8 to what it is today. Also, commensurate with the times (70s) the climb went beyond the block all the way up to the top of the cliff. Although uninteresting climbing, it was nonetheless the "di riguer" of the day to complete the climbs all the way to the very top--otherwise they often didn't qualify as first ascents. That arcane practice is thankfully no longer being followed by modern climbers--who are seeking the highest quality rock for their adventures. Aug 17, 2023