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Martha (A.K.A. "Turtles Crack")
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 1.8 from 6
votes
Routes in George
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Another for the Road S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bloody Mary T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crushed Velvet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Curious George S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flavortown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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George T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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George Direct T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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George of the Jungle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hello McFly S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Last Call T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Lounge Lizards P1 S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lounge Lizards P2/3 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lounge Lizards Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Martha (A.K.A. "Turtles Crack") T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Who knows... |
| Page Views: | 1,212 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Christian "crisco" Burrell on Oct 30, 2008 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane |
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Description
I actually am pretty sure that we are not the first guys to do this, but we asked around and nobody could tell us anyone who did it so...
This route is better than you think it is going to be. Tristan and I would stare at it every time we headed up to the limestone. Finally we decided to just do it.
Little hidden jugs appear on the way up to the steep finger crack. The crack itself is clean and takes great small cams. We were laughing at ourselves when we hit the big horn at the end of the steep part.
You can work your way over to the first bolted ledge of Lounge Lizards or be a man and continue right up George.
Stay out of the "George Direct" corner. Stemming a no no here. Don't do it on this climb! And don't clip any bolts on "George of the Jungle", you don't need em.
Why did we honestly call the route Martha? ...we have our reasons...
Will D.K. ever catch up to the new route pace? I dunno...that new guidebook may never get done! He he he...
This route is better than you think it is going to be. Tristan and I would stare at it every time we headed up to the limestone. Finally we decided to just do it.
Little hidden jugs appear on the way up to the steep finger crack. The crack itself is clean and takes great small cams. We were laughing at ourselves when we hit the big horn at the end of the steep part.
You can work your way over to the first bolted ledge of Lounge Lizards or be a man and continue right up George.
Stay out of the "George Direct" corner. Stemming a no no here. Don't do it on this climb! And don't clip any bolts on "George of the Jungle", you don't need em.
Why did we honestly call the route Martha? ...we have our reasons...
Will D.K. ever catch up to the new route pace? I dunno...that new guidebook may never get done! He he he...
4 Comments