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Routes in George

Another for the Road S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bloody Mary T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crushed Velvet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Curious George S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
George T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
George Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
George of the Jungle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hello McFly S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Last Call T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lounge Lizards P1 S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lounge Lizards P2/3 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lounge Lizards Variation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Martha (A.K.A. "Turtles Crack") T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Who knows...
Page Views: 530 total, 5/month
Shared By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Oct 30, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

I actually am pretty sure that we are not the first guys to do this, but we asked around and nobody could tell us anyone who did it so...
This route is better than you think it is going to be. Tristan and I would stare at it every time we headed up to the limestone. Finally we decided to just do it.
Little hidden jugs appear on the way up to the steep finger crack. The crack itself is clean and takes great small cams. We were laughing at ourselves when we hit the big horn at the end of the steep part.

You can work your way over to the first bolted ledge of Lounge Lizards or be a man and continue right up George.

Stay out of the "George Direct" corner. Stemming a no no here. Don't do it on this climb! And don't clip any bolts on "George of the Jungle", you don't need em.

Why did we honestly call the route Martha? ...we have our reasons...

Will D.K. ever catch up to the new route pace? I dunno...that new guidebook may never get done! He he he...

Location

Sandwiched between the big corner of George Direct and George of the Jungle is this neat overhanging finger crack.

Protection

Mostly Small to Medium cams and nuts. Once again the C3's prove their worth!

Photos

Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
To be honest, I think 5.10a is a bit of a sandbag, but I don't think it's 5.11. Nov 16, 2008
I checked out the link and made some changes to the route info. He describes it as 5.11. I would disagree with this. I have not done a lot of overhanging finger cracks but I still thought solid 5.10 was right. Nov 6, 2008
I already knew about this one, although I haven't done it yet. A guy told me about doing it around seven years ago. Here's the link to it.
rockclimbing.com/routes/Nor… Nov 5, 2008
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
This route is surprisingly good. I thought it was a bit harder than The Archbishop on PA's Mother. Feels like a solid 5.10 (not sure, though, I'm just getting back into harder trad after being a bolt-clipping pansy for most of the summer), especially if you don't stem. You could probably clip the first bolt on George of the Jungle and can continue clipping them once you're past the crux... But come on, this is a trad route! As long as you're placing gear, you might as well only place gear. After the roof, we went to the rap anchors at the base of George/top of Lounge Lizards (what's with that bolted crack, btw?? It takes perfect gear! Pity...). Keeping in mind that I get really excited about trad routes that others don't find all that great, I feel like this route is an overlooked Rock Canyon trad classic. Oct 31, 2008