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Routes in D Crags

Arrowhead, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Easter Prohibition T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Lilli's Leap T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rilke's Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shade Runner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trespasser Groove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Troglodytes Day Out T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 870 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Paul Ross Patrick Moe. Oct 25th/2008
Page Views: 1,942 total · 16/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Oct 30, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

A moderate climb on good rock, only the first pitch has one or two thin moves protected by bolts. An excellent introduction to the longer climbs on the Reef. Starts in the corner about 30' left of the Arrowhead route.
P1). Up the corner passed 3 bolts to double anchors.170'5.8R
P2).Straight up... nice climbing 150'5.4R
P3)Continue up the corner to double anchors,avoid some loose blocks to the right. 200'5.5R.
P4)Continue up the corner to double anchors.200'5.5R.
P5).A short piece of slab to a ledge (The Rap anchors of Arrowhead can be seen a few feet down to the right)continue straight up to the summit and Register in Cairn. 150'5.6R.
Descent. Scramble to the left from summit and traverse to the Rap Anchors of Arrowhead.Rap down Arrowhead or Shade Runner.The anchors on Shade Runner will need Rap slings.

Location

Located just left of the route Arrowhead .,. See Photo. Hike from the pull off at Little Wolf Canyon ...2.1 miles from I.70 on the Reef dirt road

Protection

Cams .3 to #2 camalots. Two 60m ropes ,slings.
SMH Climber
Midvale, UT
  5.8 X
SMH Climber   Midvale, UT
  5.8 X
I think this climb would not be the best introduction to climbing at the swells.
The first pitch is a great 5.8r and has the 3 good bolts and some good small pro I used a 00 tcu. I would recommend taking small to medium stoppers, I could have used them. The second pitch has pro for the first 40 feet then nothing until the anchors. So be careful and do not fall it has some bad rock on this pitch and a couple of 5.6 moves. we would rate it 5.6x due to a possible fall up to 200 feet. Pitch 3 had easy enough climbing but the pro was not solid 5.5x. Pitch 4 was sketchy the only piece of pro that may have held a fall was a 00 tcu 20 feet above the belay. I would consider this pitch to be 5.6x as well and it had a lot of bad rock. The last pitch was fun at 5.6r and view from the summit is amazing. We rapped down Arrowhead. The approach for this climb starts In the same wash for spotted wolf canyon only stay in the wash once the wash turns and your heading south there will be 2 washes that feed into this main wash from the right take the second one and follow it taking the left at the split. then follow this to the base of the cliff that forms the slot canyon. you can scramble up the left side of the pools to the slot canyon that leads back to the wall. Over all it was a fun adventure just be prepared for no pro with up to 5.6 moves on some of the pitches. Mar 18, 2015
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Thanks for your comments on this climb. I have a feeling that this sandstone rock is still on the move... lets say after winter storms ?. I have noticed when the odd times I did a repeat ascent a year or two later on one of the slab climbs that there was some loose rock that I would have thought we would have had to removed on the FA. Its a thought ! . Anyway most of these climbs have had very few ascents I suspect yours was only the second ascent. Like all climbs more ascents should improve the loose rock problem .. With regards the run outs perhaps due myself being very familiar with this type of climbing I did not feel concerned . Climbing is a after all a very personal experience.. Glad you had a good adventure with great views .. Stick at it ...I am impressed with your repeats.. Mar 20, 2015
SMH Climber
Midvale, UT
  5.8 X
SMH Climber   Midvale, UT
  5.8 X
Thank you for all of the hard work in establishing these routes. They are a lot of fun. I agree with you I am sure the rock does change over time. I am getting more used to the rock and run outs with each climb I do in the swells. For this climb in particular I probably chose the wrong line a time or two and ended up on fragile rock which is all a part of the adventure. Thanks for the encouragement as well. Apr 21, 2015
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
I think perhaps you should next try the Faith Hope and Clarity /Sinister Slab area . After the first two pitches you will hit some of the best of the slab rock and pretty good pro.Your right it takes awhile to get used to this type of climbing ...and it does gets easier as time goes on . Stick at it. Back from the UK for a couple of weeks ....sun in the Swell ..I hope Apr 22, 2015
Unless you are super solid on sand stone slab, I wouldn't recommend this route. Looking back, I would not do it again because it was too run out and sketchy for my ability level (Mental and physical). As mentioned before, there was a lot of bad rock and it got to the point where I just couldn't trust many holds. I wasn't quite sure how to anchor off the last pitch. I never saw any bolts. I just slung a couple of boulders where it levels off near the top. The rap off of Arrow head was kind of annoying because it was such a low angle and the pitches were long. It made rope management difficult. Sep 6, 2016
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Well done Casey for completing the climb ... Welcome to Adventure Climbing ... I see you mainly like sport climbs ....Well you will remember these climbs longer than a line of bolts ... I was a young lad of 71 when I did the FA of this route so don't feel bad about having a hard time.. Try Three Finger Canyon next time bit better rock and you might find the odd bolt .. Sep 6, 2016
Well said Paul! Sep 7, 2016

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