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The Summit Pitch
5.5,
Trad, 45 ft (14 m),
Avg: 2.3 from 53
votes
FA: unknown
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Thumb Area
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This short little pitch has really cool rock, all the black quartz knobs remind me of Sierra granite. There used to be an old buttonhead that somebody has chopped in the last 4 years that protected the final move onto the shoulder, lame. But you still don't really need it if you just came up one of the Thumb routes, your already prepared.
Make an exposed move over to the bucket, mantle the "water hole" and slab your way onto the shoulder. 3rd class will bring you to the summit block.
Location
Once you top out the upper slab on the Thumb hike up along the west side of the Thumb proper. You will be hiking in steep dirt with the occasional bouldering move. From the notch that separates the summit from the land form hang to the south. The Summit pitch climbs the north side of the block.
Protection
A big nut for the first step over move from the notch.
Depending how you want to get down there is a new set of anchors for Robbins Crack presumably, which will put you back down towards the Thumb slab. Or if your walking off, rap off of 2 rap hangers on the north side. A single rope will do.
![Kevin atop the W Side rapp anchors. Step left here to access the E side rapp anchors.]()
[Hide Photo] Kevin atop the W Side rapp anchors. Step left here to access the E side rapp anchors.
![Kevin at the bolt discovering that the slab isn't as tricky as it looked from farther away.]()
[Hide Photo] Kevin at the bolt discovering that the slab isn't as tricky as it looked from farther away.
![Kevin leading up past the first piece of gear on the climb, after a very exposed but easy step over a notch.]()
[Hide Photo] Kevin leading up past the first piece of gear on the climb, after a very exposed but easy step over a notch.
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Small Lake, UT
The topped out pretty late and got their rope stuck on the rap. By the time they got it free it was too late to descend in the dark and they had to bivy right where they were. They got a fire going to keep warm and made it down the next day safe and sound.
Sorry to hear they didn't cover up the pit or something... Oct 29, 2008
SLC, UT
Albany, NY
BeaUTAHfull
Broomfield, CO