Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mark Chapman, 1989
Page Views: 6,379 total · 51/month
Shared By: Kevin Friedrich on Oct 28, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Very fun lean-across-and-swing leads to some of the best pinn's knob pulling. The lean-across may seem intimidating, but after committed is easy.

Protection

5 bolts, chains atop.

Photos

This is one of the handful of rap-bolted routes at the Pins - one of about ten in the whole monument. May 23, 2010
obiss
  5.10c
obiss  
  5.10c
Great route. Possibly 5.9 after a burley couple moves to start. Dec 16, 2010
Thanks Keith I cant wait to try it. Jan 28, 2011
nicojah Parco
Bogotá Colombia
 
nicojah Parco   Bogotá Colombia
 
If it werent for the start, it's a 10a. Fun and ladder-like Aug 3, 2011
Ryan Nevius
Chiang Mai, TH
 
Ryan Nevius   Chiang Mai, TH
 
At 5'10", the start was definitely only a mental crux. The first bolt could be comfortably clipped during the lean-across. The first few moves to get onto the wall are completely straightforward. Good route. Jan 16, 2012
A bit of history as I remember it...The routes name is Cantaloupe of Death. The name referred to a large knob near the top that we couldn't believe didn't pull out and conk one on the head causing death. I remember laughing myself silly over the seeming absurdity of it. Actually, the rock on this route is as good as it gets in the Monument. Ed Barry, Yabo and I did the FA. I guess it was my idea. Eddie and I, being Bay Area climbers, had a long history of climbing at Pinnacles. All my early leads were done there. My first 5.10 was a top rope ascent of No Holds Barred. Blair Glen, Barry Bates and I nearly did the FA on top rope of Feed the Beast in 1972. It was right below the rap anchor from the Monolith so we gave it a shot. Got to some large knobs just below the top. It was so steep! Don't know why we didn't go back and finish it off. Barry was climbing with a simple bowline tied around his waist. In January of 1973 Eddie and I did the FFA ascents of the Roof and the Hatchet. Yosemite pulled us away from Pinnacles for quite a few years but when we began to revisit it (mid to late eighties??)we always ended up at the Monolith. We liked to warm up by traversing along the base below the Regular route and Feed the Beast. One couldn't help but notice the great route potential here but it was all so steep and rather hard looking. That was when I had an epiphany--Wow! I bet one could lean over from that boulder at the base and pull onto the wall above the steep section. Sport climbing and rap bolting were just coming to the forefront of climbing and we all accepted the style thinking it better to create an ideal climb top down as opposed to mucking things up free/aiding it from the base. So that is exactly what we did. I was the first to redpoint Cantaloupe. Ed followed up by doing the FA of the direct start and Yabo did Hot Lava Lucy. All good fun! Aug 31, 2014
John Hovell
San Francisco, California
 
John Hovell   San Francisco, California
 
Surprised no one has mentioned it but in case it's not obvious by the time you're looking at the thing, it's one of the most height-dependent climbs I can think of. The shorter you are, the more core strength you're going to need to stick the dynamic body-bridge start. Or if you're like my 5'1" friend, need to perform an all-points-off dyno to (try to) start the climb... below 5'5" or so it's probably much harder than 10c. Bring or make a stick clip. Mar 13, 2017
rafael
Berkeley, CA
  5.10
rafael   Berkeley, CA
  5.10
super soft for 10.c for someone not short. (me) Apr 17, 2018