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Routes in Monolith

Black Dagger, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cantaloupe Death S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cantaloupe Death Direct S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Cataract Corner S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Direct Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Feed the Beast S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Foreplay S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Future Shock S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gorillas in the Moss S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hard Variation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Hawaiian Noises S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Hot Lava Lucy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lardbutt S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Lower North Face S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Miscegenation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Post Orgasmic Depression S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ranger Bolts (aka Move over Rover) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rocket in my pocket S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Subterranean Tango S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tailspin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave Rider S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
West of the Sun S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Übermensch S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mark Chapman, 1989
Page Views: 5,490 total, 49/month
Shared By: Kevin Friedrich on Oct 28, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Very fun lean-across-and-swing leads to some of the best pinn's knob pulling. The lean-across may seem intimidating, but after committed is easy.

Protection

5 bolts, chains atop.
John Hovell
San Francisco, California
 
John Hovell   San Francisco, California
 
Surprised no one has mentioned it but in case it's not obvious by the time you're looking at the thing, it's one of the most height-dependent climbs I can think of. The shorter you are, the more core strength you're going to need to stick the dynamic body-bridge start. Or if you're like my 5'1" friend, need to perform an all-points-off dyno to (try to) start the climb... below 5'5" or so it's probably much harder than 10c. Bring or make a stick clip. Mar 13, 2017
A bit of history as I remember it...The routes name is Cantaloupe of Death. The name referred to a large knob near the top that we couldn't believe didn't pull out and conk one on the head causing death. I remember laughing myself silly over the seeming absurdity of it. Actually, the rock on this route is as good as it gets in the Monument. Ed Barry, Yabo and I did the FA. I guess it was my idea. Eddie and I, being Bay Area climbers, had a long history of climbing at Pinnacles. All my early leads were done there. My first 5.10 was a top rope ascent of No Holds Barred. Blair Glen, Barry Bates and I nearly did the FA on top rope of Feed the Beast in 1972. It was right below the rap anchor from the Monolith so we gave it a shot. Got to some large knobs just below the top. It was so steep! Don't know why we didn't go back and finish it off. Barry was climbing with a simple bowline tied around his waist. In January of 1973 Eddie and I did the FFA ascents of the Roof and the Hatchet. Yosemite pulled us away from Pinnacles for quite a few years but when we began to revisit it (mid to late eighties??)we always ended up at the Monolith. We liked to warm up by traversing along the base below the Regular route and Feed the Beast. One couldn't help but notice the great route potential here but it was all so steep and rather hard looking. That was when I had an epiphany--Wow! I bet one could lean over from that boulder at the base and pull onto the wall above the steep section. Sport climbing and rap bolting were just coming to the forefront of climbing and we all accepted the style thinking it better to create an ideal climb top down as opposed to mucking things up free/aiding it from the base. So that is exactly what we did. I was the first to redpoint Cantaloupe. Ed followed up by doing the FA of the direct start and Yabo did Hot Lava Lucy. All good fun! Aug 31, 2014
Ryan Nevius
Estes Park, CO
 
Ryan Nevius   Estes Park, CO
 
At 5'10", the start was definitely only a mental crux. The first bolt could be comfortably clipped during the lean-across. The first few moves to get onto the wall are completely straightforward. Good route. Jan 16, 2012
nicojah Parco
Bogotá Colombia
 
nicojah Parco   Bogotá Colombia
 
If it werent for the start, it's a 10a. Fun and ladder-like Aug 3, 2011
Thanks Keith I cant wait to try it. Jan 28, 2011
obiss
  5.10c
obiss  
  5.10c
Great route. Possibly 5.9 after a burley couple moves to start. Dec 16, 2010
This is one of the handful of rap-bolted routes at the Pins - one of about ten in the whole monument. May 23, 2010