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The Incredible Butt Crack

5.12-, Trad, 100 ft,  Avg: 4 from 3 votes
FA: Mason Earle, Nicolas Favresse
Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > TEMP RAPTOR AVOIDANCE…
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: See main page for raptor info. Details


This unique pitch probably belongs in Vedauwoo, but makes a nice escape from all the boring splitters you usually find in the Creek.

Ascend a varied corner up into the alcove below the massive flared roof, then squirm and contort your way around the lip and up to the anchor.
The combination of bizzare movement, good gear and an awesome feature make this a must do for all visiting Jedi (and aspiring) offwidth climbers!


From the Catmandu/ Cat touch this end of the cliff, walk about 5 minutes right on a faint trail. There is a plaque, but this route is very hard to miss.


2 #6 camalots
1 #4 camalot(to protect the first move off the deck)
1 #2
1 #1
2-3 finger sized

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sean Villanueva in the business end of the I.B.C
[Hide Photo] Sean Villanueva in the business end of the I.B.C
Post burn, with nose gobie
[Hide Photo] Post burn, with nose gobie
Andreas on a TR recon, spring '09
[Hide Photo] Andreas on a TR recon, spring '09

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Super cool feature!!! i found it harder than the 'brother', there's gotta be more eh? i also used invert beta rather than the crazy squeeze you boys were using, not sure what works better though....

patrick May 30, 2009
Ray Lovestead
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Not sure how you can do this without a VG9 or even VG12. I couldn't reach up deep enough to place any #6s once clear of the start. Be careful.. a swing out on lead could be messy.

I need someone out there to teach me how to climb this. I had no idea what to do and had to back off. Apr 11, 2017