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Routes in Main Cliff

Ali Babbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
As The World Burns S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beat Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fat Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fear of Abraham T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gold Digger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goldbug S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldbug Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goldmember S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iron Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Know Ethics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Big Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millenium Falcon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Peanut Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rap Echo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Du Jours Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock de Jours T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rocket Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Shiskebob T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Simon Bar Sinister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skewer, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sky Lab (incomplete) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R
Soup to Nuts S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Shuttle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Steel Curtain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supersize Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Polly Purebred S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thang, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thin Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Underdog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Ferrata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Working Man T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Mark Sprague 11/00
Page Views: 528 total, 5/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Oct 28, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

Not a bad obscure route (that hasn't seen too many repeats) but not a classic either. The rock is a little brittle but the holds you need seem solid (the crux hold is reinforced with glue I think). The best thing about the route is the exposure of the upper wall as the pitch starts 100+ feet off the ground.

Pitch one: 5.7 Climb the first pitch of Rock Du Jours Direct to the two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: Follow eye bolts up and right to a steep bulge. Hand traverse up and right along a ledge beneath the bulge to a good clipping hold and a really big deadpoint to a pretty good hold (crimp). Body tension, footwork, and hard crimping will get you through the moves between crimps straight up about 20 feet to a rest and on to the anchor of Rock Du Jours. The technical crimping was my favorite part but if you like hard deadpointing you will love the crux.

Edit - Note, the hold you used to dyno for has broken off, so it is probably quite a bit harder than 12c now.

Location

Up the vegetated corner at the right end of Main Cliff's Iron Man wall.. You will break left and up the wall past eye bolts to an anchor. The crux pitch use the first bolt or 2 of Rock Du Jours Direct but trending more right then heads up over the steep bulge.

Protection

Eye bolts to the same anchor as Rock Du Jours. On the crux pitch I clipped 9 bolts and back cleaned one (2nd) to reduce potential drag. There are quick clips at the top.
Will McFarland
Lebanon, NH
Will McFarland   Lebanon, NH
I checked this one out recently. I didn't figure out the crux, (I only tried it for a few mins) but it I think it would be in the 5.13 range. I may try it seriously in the spring when everything else is wet. Sep 26, 2017
Ming  
I checked it out as I was lowered from Rock Du Jours, it looks very, very hard, anyone tried it lately? It could be the new 5.15 at Rumney, just to get the stoke going ;) Oct 16, 2016
Eli
Lives in a truck
Eli   Lives in a truck
Has anyone re-sent this yet? Are we looking at Soup to Nuts II? (I don't know how much longer I can beat this joke to death) Jul 27, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I will have to try it again... i really like climbing rocks Jul 17, 2014
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
I actually gave it a few goes after the hold broke. The broken hold left a smooth break. Left of this are some sharp edges that can be used. I (and most people I imagine) used a left heel hook originally; when I pull up to the crimp out left (just as long of a move as before) it required me to REALLY engage my left calf. It didn't feel good so I stopped. I pulled up and from that crimp I was able to ascend the rest of the route. I'm sure this will go but it'll be one extremely hard, inconsistent move. Then again, no one really cares about ??. Jul 16, 2014
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
Adam Ondra could probably stick a really bad under crimp with his thumb just above the broken hold.
This could be a 5.15 move!!! Jul 15, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i looked at it pretty well and didnt see a solution (barring the purple hold idea haha) but i will look again and hope my perspective changes and i can figure it out... Jul 15, 2014
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Has anybody given it a serious attempt since the hold broke? We need one of the North Conway boys to come and bolt on a big purple hold like they did at Sundown, :))

"Maybe now I'll give one of the Gold- finishes a try." - or As the World Burns Jul 14, 2014
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
It's sad to see a route being abandoned because of one broken hold.
This route will never be sent again... Jul 14, 2014
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
I actually enjoyed this as an alternative to Rock Du Jours Direct. Maybe now I'll give one of the Gold- finishes a try. Jun 24, 2013
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Yup. Cover photo, right hand mountainproject.com/v/10781…

OK, I'll leave them. Now you can dyno 6+ feet for the left hand crimp. Jun 24, 2013
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Nooo!!! :'( And on to the list of routes I'll have to try harder on :)

The hold I'm going to here?
Jun 24, 2013
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Don't feel bad. I was always a little bummed about the ugliness of that glued hold. I should probably figure out how to chop those bolts and patch them. I doubt the route would go without the hold and if it did it would be a nasty hard one move wonder that nobody will ever do. One thing I have learned is that it seems no matter how carefully you do it, almost every glued hold eventually ends up popping off anyway, so I have become much more circumspect about gluing stuff. Jun 24, 2013
Around a week ago a friend of mine broke off the key crux hold. This was the hold that had some glue behind it and I think that the route will be much harder now.
Jun 23, 2013