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Routes in The Far Side

18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
5.8 TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
At Last S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Atlas S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Atlas Shrugged S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Better Eat Your Wheaties T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Bushy Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cereal Killer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chief, The S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Death to the Right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Far Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Far Side Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Far aka Let's Climb Naked S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Feelin' Your Oats T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Forrester's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hummingbird Spire, N. Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Initiation Rite T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jardinero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Koka T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kola S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Livin' on a Prayer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mystery Hole S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Near Side Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
New Tradition S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Spice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Tradition T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pile, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Planet of the Grapes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Rite of Passage T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Saviour Heart T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Separation Anxiety S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shute-Mills Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Something Good S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Step To The Left T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Synchronicity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tradfest T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
War Party S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 922 total · 8/month
Shared By: Floyd Hayes on Oct 27, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Mt. St. Helena Crags - Fire Damage from Fall 2017 Details

Description

Two closely spaced bolts protect a short face, followed by easy although a bit dirty and runout climbing to the chains or more challenging but runout (unless cams are used) face climbing to the right.

Protection

Two quickdraws for two bolts or a few small to medium cams if you wish to lead the more challenging right side of the face above the two bolts.

Photos

Floyd Hayes  
 
I've changed it again to "Far aka Let's Climb Naked." I once met Ken Stanton on a trail and he said he had an old topo that he made for Far Side climbs, but I haven't seen it (yet). Jul 6, 2015
Pretty sure this is "Let's Climb Naked". I'm looking at Eric Sorenson's Far Side topo from 2001. FA is listed as Ken Stanton, 90s.

Eric's topo labels the climb on the formation down the hill and climber's left as "Farther". Maybe the route just next to it is "Far", though Far is actually not found in Eric's topo, which seems pretty complete. My guidebook does have two routes listed where there is only one (that being Let's Climb Naked).

Maybe Eric can weigh in? Jun 29, 2015
Floyd Hayes  
 
Okay, I've changed the name back to Far. Sep 9, 2013
Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
  5.8
Jerry Dodrill   Bodega, CA
  5.8
You are right Floyd. The name and topo in the Bay Area Rock book is incorrect by my knowledge.. Jun 13, 2013
Floyd Hayes  
 
Following Jim Thornburg's "Bay Area Rock," I've changed the name from "Far" to "Let's Get Naked." I wonder where that name came from? Nobody is attributed with the first ascent in his book. Also, I think he has mislabeled its position in the photograph. It should be route number 16 (I don't think route number 17 exists). Mar 11, 2013
Floyd Hayes  
 
Jerry is right, the quality of climbing is much better on the right side of the face now that the vegetation overgrowing it has been chopped. I managed to lead it by placing three cams in pockets above the two bolts, but since many (most?) climbers on Mt. St. Helena aren't into trad climbing it would be good if new bolts were placed. I didn't notice any old bolt holes, but wasn't aware Jerry had found them and wasn't looking for them. I have changed my quality rating from 1 to 2 stars. Apr 19, 2011
Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
  5.8
Jerry Dodrill   Bodega, CA
  5.8
Thanks for the info Eric, and for helping with the upkeep. I haven't been back to work on this since posting last year. The route in question has two bolts down low, one is a 1/2" stainless stud bolt, the other is 3/8 non stainless (iirc), then an easy runout, and the anchor was out left, two homemade ring hangers above a ledge. To the right, there are indeed no less than three empty holes on the pocketed face which continues up (and a tree had severely overgrown), and two empty holes on the top of the cliff. I pruned the tree, moved the anchor to the top, and left one hanger at the old anchor, protecting a traverse to the top until this gets sorted out.

The ring anchors I removed matched those that were found and replaced above "Farther," the route off to the left and downhill. I understand that these are probably not the FA names and I'm not sure who did the FAs. Perhaps I'm indeed confusing them. Regardless, my inclination is to install bolts in the empty holes on Far if they were original, which would make for the longest, highest quality climbing experience, and a safe lead. Input appreciated....

Cheers,
Jerry Feb 15, 2011
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
I was the one who rebolted this route back in 2000. I think Dodrill may have this confused with another route. There is no way that this short piece of rock could have had five bolts! I remember reusing a hole or two at the anchor location, it was probably originally a TR or very sporty trad lead. Sorry for the old school anchor system, I was fresh out of college and had a bigger imagination than wallet at the time. Props to anyone who has kept up with the maintenance.

Eric Sorenson Feb 9, 2011
Floyd Hayes  
 
I know nothing of its history, but I led it twice and don't recall the climbing being very good on the upper part of the route. Aug 30, 2010
Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
  5.8
Jerry Dodrill   Bodega, CA
  5.8
Does anyone have history on this route? It seems to have changed at some point. From what I can tell the route originally had five lead bolts up a nice face, with anchors at the top of the cliff. Somebody chopped the upper anchor and bolts and added a different (funky) anchor out left, which eliminates the best climbing. Makes no sense, except that the route had become overgrown. I moved the anchor back to the top of the cliff and once I know more will probably restore this nice route to its original 5 bolt state. Jun 8, 2010