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Routes in The Far Side

18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
5.8 TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
At Last S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Atlas S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Atlas Shrugged S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Better Eat Your Wheaties T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Bushy Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cereal Killer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chief, The S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Death to the Right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Far Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Far Side Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Far aka Let's Climb Naked S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Feelin' Your Oats T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Forrester's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hummingbird Spire, N. Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Initiation Rite T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jardinero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Koka T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kola S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Livin' on a Prayer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mystery Hole S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Near Side Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
New Tradition S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Spice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Tradition T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pile, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Planet of the Grapes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Rite of Passage T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Saviour Heart T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Separation Anxiety S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shute-Mills Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Something Good S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Step To The Left T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Synchronicity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tradfest T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
War Party S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Type: Sport, TR, 75 ft
FA: Eric Sorenson 2002
Page Views: 3,226 total, 29/month
Shared By: Floyd Hayes on Oct 27, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

From the base of Shute-Mills, continue down around the corner to the obvious arete with six bolts. This well protected climb is probably 5.7 if you happen to find the best holds at the crux, just after the first bolt (stay left), but be prepared for it to feel more like 5.8, which I think is a more accurate rating. Stepping off the pillar to clip the fifth bolt is a bit spooky; a fall would really hurt, but it's an easy move. The upper headwall has perfect cracks for gear, I'm not sure why two bolts were placed--must have been to guide sport climbers to the top.

Protection

Six quick draws for six bolts
Kevin Miller
San Francisco, CA
  5.8
Kevin Miller   San Francisco, CA
  5.8
I led this last month to set up a TR for the gang. I thought that the only 5.8 move was just after the first bolt. The rest of the route seemed like 5.7, and is quite vertical and enjoyable for the grade. The move from the pillar to the upper head-wall may be a little intimidating for a 5.8 leader, but don't let it shut you down!

The anchor bolts are still spinners as of July 2016, but I think are pretty solid for lowering/rapping. There is a third bolt a couple of feet above the rings, so I used that to back up the TR. Aug 5, 2016
I climbed this yesterday and based on FourT6and2's rating and part of their anchor description it would appear they were on a different route. However, this route is very distinct and therefore it seems unlikely that FourT6and2 was on a different route. Therefore two points on FourT6and2's comment:

The people who contributed to the consensus rating of 5.8 appear to have the experience to know what they are talking about. Therefore, in no world is this climb a 5.4/5.5, i.e. 3-4 grades softer than the consensus. This site is for informational purposes. People use it to assist in choosing a route within their ability in order to be safe. Therefore, in my opinion, saying a 5.8, or even a 5.7, is a 5.4 is inconsiderate and dangerous, especially for a lead route with a run out section such as this one.

Also, both bolts at the top were spinners. After assessing, I did decide to use them to set up an anchor to be lowered down and for top rope. However, due to the nature of spinners the top bolts are not "bomber".

As an additional note, this route bakes in the afternoon sun. Climb it early in the day. May 31, 2016
FourT6and2
San Francisco, CA
FourT6and2   San Francisco, CA
Climbed this yesterday. Such a fun route! Great views and flows really smoothly. But... definitely not a 5.8. More like a 5.4/5.5 The holds are huge and feel like gym holds. I'm not complaining, it was a blast!

Two bomber bolts for anchor at the top, next to the bolts for Shute-Mills. Bolts have rap rings. Apr 18, 2016
This was a friend's first real outdoor lead. Fun but definitely a bit run out between the fourth and fifth bolts -- the moves aren't hard but a fall just before the fifth bolt could be pretty dangerous. Apr 13, 2015