Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Overhang

5.9 R, Trad, TR, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 8 votes
FA: unknown
California > San Francisco B… > Wine Country/No… > Mt St Helena > Silverado Mine

Description

NOTE: THE RIGHT SIDE OF AN OVERHANGING BLOCK FELL DURING THE WINTER OF 2017-2018 (see photos). Start at Left Corner. About 15 feet up move left and climb the face just left of the arete toward the bolt, traverse left below the bolt and climb the face several feet left of the bolt to an anchor at the top. The new crux comprises a few thin face moves just above the overhang.

"Jagged Edge" variation 5.10b: climb up the overhanging blocks of the jagged arete.

FOR THOSE WONDERING WHAT YOU MISSED BEFORE THE OVERHANGING BLOCK FELL, HERE IS MY ORIGINAL DESCRIPTION: Start at the obvious right-facing arch. About 15 feet up, climb left over the overhanging arch on good holds in a crack on the face, then wander up the face to the left of Bolt Route or finish on Bolt Route. If leading, the overhang is well protected by a double sling around the large block beneath the arch and a small cam in a solid crack between hand holds on the face. The overhang is much easier than it appears. The anchor is shared with Left Corner.

Protection

1 set of cams up to 2 inches. Rappel off a double bolt anchor with rappel rings.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

I last led under the overhang  (on Left Corner) on 5 November 2016. The overhanging block fell by 13 January 2017 as reported by Jerry Dodrill. I next top-roped it on 11 March 2017. Photos by Matthew-Lee Morgan.
[Hide Photo] I last led under the overhang (on Left Corner) on 5 November 2016. The overhanging block fell by 13 January 2017 as reported by Jerry Dodrill. I next top-roped it on 11 March 2017. Photos by Matth…
Recently, a large chunk of the overhang went bye-bye. The nice belay spots below are mostly covered with rubble now.
[Hide Photo] Recently, a large chunk of the overhang went bye-bye. The nice belay spots below are mostly covered with rubble now.
Cheri Ermshar climbing Overhang 5.9. Photo by Floyd Hayes.
[Hide Photo] Cheri Ermshar climbing Overhang 5.9. Photo by Floyd Hayes.
Route
[Hide Photo] Route
Phil Ermshar leading Overhang 5.9. Photo by Cheri Ermshar.
[Hide Photo] Phil Ermshar leading Overhang 5.9. Photo by Cheri Ermshar.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Floyd Hayes
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Below the overhang a jug for the right hand is very loose but isn't necessary. As you reach left over the overhang the closest flake is also loose, but there are more solid hand holds (and a solid crack for a cam if leading) just a few inches to the left. Nov 12, 2009
Floyd Hayes
  5.9
[Hide Comment] The loose flake at the crux is now gone, probably pulled off by a climber. It's now a longer reach to the crack and harder to lead. Before it was 5.8/5.9, now it's more solid 5.9, but harder if you're short (I'm 5'10"). Jun 8, 2015
Floyd Hayes
  5.9
[Hide Comment] After the right side of the overhang collapsed the route can still be climbed. Climbing the sharp right edge of the overhang is now 5.7 and the crux is thin 5.9 face climbing above, just left of the right arete. Leading the climb is still possible but more dangerous (rated R or X). Mar 14, 2017