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Routes in Little Horse Mesa

A-Frame, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Arrowhead, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bad Moon Rising T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bat Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Birthday Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bush Doctor T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bush Pilot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carpa Manana T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crack From Hell, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crack Head T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crazy Cams T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dog Day T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Double D Left T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
DoubleD Right T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Driven to Climbs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Duke in a Bucket T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless Summer T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Get Your Mojo Running T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gift of Aliens T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Roof Left T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Roof Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jam Your Blues Away T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lackawanna T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
March Madness T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Miami Vice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Motengator T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Optimator, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oral Sex in the Whitehouse T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pete's Downclimb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pocket Rocket, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Primodelic T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Raised by Wolves T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Resurrection Link Up T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right on Raton T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
S&M Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Salt Mother T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sangre Verde S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Saphire Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soma Holiday T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Son of Motengator T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spoticus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sweet and Sour T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Taos Lightning T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type O T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Up Your Arete T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wounded Knee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yo Mamma T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 450 total · 4/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Oct 27, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Near the left side of the cliff at Sugarite is a gigantic roof. The crack that passes the left side of the roof is the classic Great Roof Left. Less classic but still fun is the crack that passes the right side. Start up a huge flake that goes easy but unprotected (unless you have a #6 camalot or some big bros) to some dodgy-looking but solid blocks just below the roof. Get some good pro in at the edge of the roof and pull some strenuous jamming and laybacking up around the roof to easier and fun hand jamming to the top. Heavy amounts of lichen on the left side of the crack keep the foot placements interesting to the top.

It's a fun route but not very consistent. Easy climbing to the roof, a tough move around the roof and then easier climbing above. Still worth doing, though.

FA info would be greatly appreciated. Also, suggested rating info would be nice too. The 5.10a rating is just our guess since we haven't seen anything published about this route. The move around the roof is definitely more challenging than any single move on Great Roof Left but overall the route is much less sustained.

Location

Near the far left side of the wall.

Protection

BD cams... .5, .75, 2x #2, 2x #3 and some gear for the anchor (good anchor gear is a #4 and a #3.)

Photos

Definitely a one-move wonder.... Oct 28, 2008

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