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Routes in Little Horse Mesa

A-Frame, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Arrowhead, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bad Moon Rising T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bat Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Birthday Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bush Doctor T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bush Pilot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carpa Manana T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crack From Hell, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crack Head T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crazy Cams T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dog Day T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Double D Left T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
DoubleD Right T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Driven to Climbs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Duke in a Bucket T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless Summer T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Get Your Mojo Running T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gift of Aliens T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Roof Left T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Roof Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jam Your Blues Away T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lackawanna T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
March Madness T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Miami Vice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Motengator T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Optimator, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oral Sex in the Whitehouse T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pete's Downclimb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pocket Rocket, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Primodelic T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Raised by Wolves T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Resurrection Link Up T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right on Raton T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
S&M Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Salt Mother T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sangre Verde S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Saphire Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soma Holiday T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Son of Motengator T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spoticus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sweet and Sour T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Taos Lightning T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type O T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Up Your Arete T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wounded Knee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yo Mamma T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Stewart Green and Martha Morris
Page Views: 1,991 total, 18/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Oct 27, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

S&M Crack is one of three routes at Sugarite dubbed as "megaclassics" by Dennis Jackson in his "Rock Climbing New Mexico" book. At 75 feet in length it is also the longest route at Sugarite.
Start off some blocks at the base following some broken flakes and finger crack from protection up to a large roof/bulge. Pull up and around the roof via some committing laybacking to the hand crack above.
If you're pumped like I was, a large ledge just off to the left about half way up the route offers a very good rest before you fire up the upper half.
Follow the overhanging hand crack with small edges for feet on the face for another 25 feet to the top. Watch for some loose rocks on top.

Location

Far right side of the wall. The long crack is obvious.

Protection

BD cams... Doubles of .3, .75, 1, 2. Singles of .4, .5, 3. Two-bolt anchor at the top just to the left of this crack serves as a rappel anchor too.

Photos

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
 
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
 
Ah, and now the name makes sense. Thanks Dennis. Mar 2, 2009
FA Stewart Green and Martha Morris Mar 2, 2009